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The Mordor Wall

Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Armaggedon T,S 
Bridge of Khazad-Dm, The T 
Cecile T,S 
Difficulties be Damned T 
Division of Labour T 
Free Finale/Mordor Roof link-up T 
French Connection T 
Grand Finale T 
Highway 61 T 
Lights in the Forest T,S 
Mines of Moria T 
MOE T 
Mordor Wall, The T 
Pendulum Route T 
Slippery Corner (Apocalypse / Diagonal Variation) T 
Unknown 
Unsorted Routes:

The Mordor Wall  


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Administrators: Jay Knower, M Sprague, lee hansche, Kristine Hoffman (sitewide)
Submitted By: lee hansche on Mar 3, 2007
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Description 

The Mordor Wall is perhaps the most appropriately named wall at Cathedral. The first time I looked up at that wall, it looked evil, like a steep, imposing wall seemingly devoid of holds and going on forever. Mostly known for its aid climbing, it also hosts a few desperate free routes. Most of the free climbing is in the 5.12 range, and the aid is from C2 to A4.

Classics include Grande Finale (5.12), Mordor Wall (A3, some pitches have gone free), Diagonal (5.9 R) would be more popular if the top out wasn't choked with poison ivy (I've not checked for myself yet, but it doesn't sound pretty).

Getting There 

Hike up the well-marked trail as if going to Thin Air Face. The Mordor Wall will be right in front of you. It's the one that makes you go "Holy shit." The Thin Air face is on its left, and the Cathedral Cave on the right.

Climbing Season



Weather station 2.0 miles from here

16 Total Routes

['4 Stars',8],['3 Stars',6],['2 Stars',0],['1 Star',2],['Bomb',0]
['<=5.6',2],['5.7',0],['5.8',1],['5.9',0],['5.10',2],['5.11',3],['5.12',3],['5.13',2],['>=5.14',1],['',0],['<=V1',0],['V2-3',0],['V4-5',0],['V6-7',0],['V8-9',0],['V10-11',0],['V12-13',0],['>=V14',0]

The Classics

Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for The Mordor Wall:
The Mordor Wall   5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b C2     Trad, Aid, 5 pitches, 500'   
Division of Labour   5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b     Trad, 3 pitches, 175'   
Lights in the Forest   5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c     Trad, Sport, 6 pitches, 400'   
Pendulum Route   5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII 25 E4 6a PG13     Trad, 8 pitches, 400'   
The Bridge of Khazad-Dm   5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a     Trad, 6 pitches, 400'   
Highway 61   5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c     Trad, 4 pitches, 400'   
Difficulties be Damned   5.14a 8b+ 32 X+ 32 E8 7a     Trad, 1 pitch, 80'   
Browse More Classics in The Mordor Wall

Featured Route For The Mordor Wall
Paul Ross ,Mike Hienz on the First Ascent. Aug 1977. A few minutes after this photo was taken Mike succumbed to heat stroke and had to be lowered semi consious to the ground ..They returned  later to finish the route.

Grand Finale 5.12b/c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b C2 R  NH : Cathedral Ledge : The Mordor Wall
A companion to the Mordor Wall.Pitch 1: Bolts and hooks up to a thin crack. C2 (Has been attempted free. May be the cliff's first 5.14)Pitch 2: WILD- move right along a thin seam(rp's)to some fixed stuff. Down climb to the lip and traverse right to the safety of a small ledge. 10+RRPitch 3: Two aid moves on dowels the start a sustained thin slab up to a small roof and Freak Out Ledge. 5.12c A0 Pitch 4: Aid up a crack or face climb out right to bolts and cool steep slab climbing to a ledge under ...[more]   Browse More Classics in NH

Photos of The Mordor Wall Slideshow Add Photo
Mike Fitzgerald cleaning up on the first pitch mid 90's
Mike Fitzgerald cleaning up on the first pitch mid...

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