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The Mordor Wall

Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Armaggedon T,S 
Bridge of Khazad-Dm, The T 
Cecile T,S 
Difficulties be Damned T 
Division of Labour T 
Free Finale/Mordor Roof link-up T 
French Connection T 
Grand Finale T 
Highway 61 T 
Lights in the Forest T,S 
Mines of Moria T 
MOE T 
Mordor Wall, The T 
Pendulum Route T 
Slippery Corner (Apocalypse / Diagonal Variation) T 
Unknown 
Unsorted Routes:

The Mordor Wall 


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Administrators: Jay Knower, M Sprague, lee hansche, Kristine Hoffman
Submitted By: lee hansche on Mar 3, 2007
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Description 

The Mordor Wall is perhaps the most appropriately named wall at Cathedral. The first time I looked up at that wall, it looked evil, like a steep, imposing wall seemingly devoid of holds and going on forever. Mostly known for its aid climbing, it also hosts a few desperate free routes. Most of the free climbing is in the 5.12 range, and the aid is from C2 to A4.

Classics include Grande Finale (5.12), Mordor Wall (A3, some pitches have gone free), Diagonal (5.9 R) would be more popular if the top out wasn't choked with poison ivy (I've not checked for myself yet, but it doesn't sound pretty).


Getting There 

Hike up the well-marked trail as if going to Thin Air Face. The Mordor Wall will be right in front of you. It's the one that makes you go "Holy shit." The Thin Air face is on its left, and the Cathedral Cave on the right.


Climbing Season


16 Total Routes


['4 Stars',8],['3 Stars',6],['2 Stars',0],['1 Star',2],['Bomb',0]
['<=5.6',2],['5.7',0],['5.8',1],['5.9',0],['5.10',2],['5.11',3],['5.12',3],['5.13',2],['>=5.14',1],['',0],['<=V1',0],['V2-3',0],['V4-5',0],['V6-7',0],['V8-9',0],['V10-11',0],['V12-13',0],['>=V14',0]

The Classics

Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for The Mordor Wall:
The Mordor Wall   5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b C2     Trad, Aid, 5 pitches, 500'   
Division of Labour   5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b     Trad, 3 pitches, 175'   
Lights in the Forest   5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c     Trad, Sport, 6 pitches, 400'   
Pendulum Route   5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII 25 E4 6a PG13     Trad, 8 pitches, 400'   
The Bridge of Khazad-Dm   5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a     Trad, 6 pitches, 400'   
Highway 61   5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c     Trad, 4 pitches, 400'   
Browse More Classics in The Mordor Wall

Featured Route For The Mordor Wall
Paul Ross on the first ascent P3.photo Ed Webster

Lights in the Forest 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c  NH : Cathedral Ledge : The Mordor Wall
Memorable. 6 great pitches! Pro on the last pitch is R, but should not be an issue if you're climbing 11. P1-Start at a bolt ladder to the right of Highway 61 (where the old tree climb began) and climb corner to ledge system above. 5.8 - 80' P2- Undercling right under the overlap to ledge. 10b - 40'P3- Move up and left via crack into a corner (bolt). Straight up into the chimney feature and then to another great belay ledge! 5.9 - 140' P4- Up and at 'em! Up the 5.8 handcrack then traverse right ...[more]   Browse More Classics in NH

Photos of The Mordor Wall Slideshow Add Photo
Mike Fitzgerald cleaning up on the first pitch mid 90's
Mike Fitzgerald cleaning up on the first pitch mid...
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