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The Moratorium is three (sometimes four) pitches of technical and powerful stemming and jamming up a steep, right-facing corner system at the base of El Cap. It serves as a great approach to the classic "East Buttress" as they finish and start within a few meters of one another, but because the climbing is of such a different nature (that is, East Buttress being much easier, wandering, and adventurous), the Moratorium is perhaps better as a stand-alone climb.
The corner is easily identified on Shultz's Ridge. Approach via a short third class scramble in from the right.
P1: Climb up the steep, pumpy 5.10 corner via jams and quite a bit of laybacking. The top gets thin but just when things get desparate, one can step left to a great belay ledge. Belay at bolts. 5.10d.
P2: Step back into the corner (airy), and continue up on fun climbing until an ultra-thin, creative stemming affair at the top. 10d.
P3: Climb up some hollow flakes to a stance a little ways out from the belay. The crux involves steep liebacking and stemming up a seasonally wet crack. Kinda tough 5.11b. Link this pitch into the next one if you're continuing up to the East Buttress, or rap from here with two ropes.
P4: A short 5.9 pitch up flakes and blocks to the top.
Double set of cams with a strong emphasis on small gear (RPs not needed, but bring plenty of TCUs/tiny Aliens). Two ropes if you wish to rap.
Leading the first pitch of the Moratorium
the 10' of wild stemming in P2.
Leading up P1 of the Moratorium. Thanks to David ...
|Comments on The Moratorium
From: Concord, MA
Sep 28, 2007
This climb is a superb intro for valley 5.11 multi-pitch
|By Mark Hammond|
From: Eldorado Springs, CO
Nov 19, 2007
Excellent but desperate with the algae/seaweed in the crux tips section. Felt harder than other 5.11's on this trip such as the Rostrum. My experience linking the final 2 pitches would lead me to break them up next time.
Nov 28, 2007
seemed to me that of the first two 10d pitches, the second one worked me over way more. i felt like i was barely in there for the slappy moves to the anchors.
May 3, 2010
What a great route! Something to note though: the crux section can be quite wet in the spring (especially after a snowy winter), as it was the first weekend of May this year. When wind blows Horsetail Falls over onto the East Buttress, you might find yourself getting some water spray on the 3rd & 4th pitches :)
|By Dmitriy Litvak|
From: Pacifica, CA
Apr 15, 2013
Pitch 1 belay is more of a rappel. The chains are easy to miss in action. Building gear anchor on one of the small flake ledges in the crack worked better for us. 70m could link 1st 2 pitches for a mega endurance pitch. Haven't tried it yet.