|Battle of the Bulge Buttress
Just a bit left of Swedin-Ringle is a seldom climbed route. The fact that it's rarely climbed isn't because of a lack of quality; it is because it's wide...that's right, we're talking offwidth techniques.
Left of Swedin-Ringle and right of Mystery machine and the unnamed 5.10.
Up to a #6 Camalot. Be prepared for a little spice. The mental crux of moving out from the chimney onto the face requires a unique placement if you want it: put a knot in a thin dyneema runner, and slide the knot into the flared bottleneck. It's a somewhat blind placement, but it's bomber. Above this, you can place a 0.5 camalot, then 0.75, maybe two #1s. You could place a #2 toward the top if you wanted.
Upper crack above the chimney section
|By Jason Nelson|
From: SLC, UT
Apr 3, 2011
There's a variation Lisa and I added that goes right into thin, then splitter hands and the other side of the broken pillar forming Sweedin' Ringle.
|By Devin Fin|
May 1, 2012
Jason the splitter you two put up is 5 star.an a much safer end to the climb. i saw the old mess of burnt webbing an opted for yer route ... great work..
From: Boulder, CO
Oct 16, 2012
Agreed that the thin hands finish is the way to go. A 70m rope works fine for this. I took a new #6 camalot and it didn't fit anywhere. I recommend taking 2x new #5 camalots as the biggest piece. Place one to back up the drilled angle and another up higher in that OW instead of bumping one with you the whole way like I did and risk a bad fall if you come out with it in your hand. The chimney leading up to the drilled angle isn't very well protected, although maybe a huge big bro would fit. Then again, it's probably easy(er) than I made it if you don't suck at OW.