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The Whale's Tail
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Amputee Love T 
C'est What? S 
Clementine T 
Dihedral One T 
Dihedral Two T 
East Slabs T 
Finger Crack T 
Free Speech S 
Gumbo T 
Gut Feeling T 
Horangutan T 
Jack The Ripper T 
Jim Crack T 
Kid's Climb T 
Left Arete T 
M T,S 
Martindale T 
Monument, The S 
NED (Nothing Except Dynamics) T 
New Cambria T,TR 
No Problem T 
Northeast Arete T 
Second Coming S,TR 
Spoof T 
Spoof Roof T 
West Crack T,TR 
West Dihedral T,TR 
West Face [Whale's Tail] T,TR 
Yorkshire Ripper, The T 

The Monument 

YDS: 5.12d French: 7c Ewbanks: 28 UIAA: IX ZA: 28 British: E6 6b

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch
Consensus:  YDS: 5.12d French: 7c Ewbanks: 28 UIAA: IX ZA: 28 British: E6 6b [details]
FA: Dale Goddard?
Fixed Hardware: 4 Lead Bolts, 2 Belay Bolts [details]
Page Views: 2,524
Submitted By: Pinklebear on Sep 21, 2001

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Dan Levison getting the key knee-bar on the Monume...

Climbing reopened after flood MORE INFO >>>

Description 

Feeling burly? Dig slippery cave climbing? This hyper-visible line climbs left to right out of the back of the grotty cave on the south face of the Whale's [Tail], right above the main trail to Redgarden.

Either boulder up (slightly heinous) or stick clip the first bolt and continue right on underclings and strange spikes to the lip of the cave. Going left past another bolt to finish yields a fine 13a, while the standard route goes up and slightly right via the crack/layback.

While not the prettiest route in the Canyon, The Monument is athletic and steep and is perhaps one of the most photographed sport routes in America.

Protection 

Six quickdraws and a medium stopper or equivalent piece for over the lip.


Photos of The Monument Slideshow Add Photo
The Monument with direct finish, photo: Bob Horan.
The Monument with direct finish, photo: Bob Horan.
Jamie turning the lip on The Monument.
Jamie turning the lip on The Monument.

Comments on The Monument Add Comment
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By KCP
From: Eldorado Springs, CO
Oct 10, 2014
rating: 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b

CONDITION REPORT 
GEAR ALERT!

I got on this route, the other day (10/07/2014), and the first bolt is partially levered out of the hole, bent, and rusting. These are probably the same bolts that were there when I sent this route back in '92. They need to be replace before someone breaks on and decks.
By Gregger Man
Oct 15, 2014

CONDITION REPORT 
The first bolt has been replaced. The remaining bolts are on the list for replacement, since they are plated steel with stainless hangers. They are 3.5" x 3/8" Rawls which are in average condition (they are somewhat sheltered from the rain) - but they are much better/stronger than many old lead bolts in the canyon. The replacement job will be difficult, since this overhanging route traverses so much and there are no good aid hook placements. A good extension ladder will help....
By Ken Trout
From: Golden, CO
Aug 27, 2007

Here is the rumor/history behind the name Monument. This is not found in the excellent new, 2000 edition, guidebook. The cave was originally a stout aid route. An unknown climber was killed while nailing the roof when a tombstone-sized block pulled out and crushed the poor guy. You can see the spot where the monument block once hung, just past the second bolt. Credible story? Well... the guy (Lee?) who told me this in 1973 was doing Northcutt free with bare feet and had nailed every hairy aid climb in Eldo worth doing.