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The Grendel
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The Monster Mash 

YDS: 5.8+ French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c

Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 70'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10a French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 18 British: E1 5a [details]
FA: Kirk Miller & Mark Rolofson, 2010
Page Views: 839
Submitted By: J. Broussard on Aug 1, 2011

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Doug pulls past the crux up high. The holds befor...

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Climb up to a ledge & the 1st bolt. Follow an easy wide crack to a ledge. Pull over a small overlap on the right, past the 4th bolt. Wander up to a ledge and the 6th bolt. Climb a steep face past 2 bolts to a long narrow ledge. Traverse 10' left and reach the 9th bolt. A short vertical face leads to a roof. Move left on a horizontal crack to where the roof get smaller. Pull over the roof on jugs. Move right to the anchor.


This is the farthest route on the right on the Southeast face of the Grendel.


10 bolts to a 2 bolt anchor.

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By Matt Harper
Aug 1, 2011

What a tremendous route! This climb is not for the faint of heart 5.8+ lead climbers. The panoramic views once at top are worth the gray hairs. There is a 5.10 on the left side of this face which is better suited for a warm up before this 5.8.
By stickit
Sep 18, 2011
rating: 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b

The last moves up and around the last bolt feels 10b/c.
By Ramo D
Jun 8, 2014

Climbed this today and the moves don't seem out of line with 5.8ish, but the sequences are tricky. Getting around the 2nd roof was a bit of a puzzle, and then the last move to the anchors takes commitment. Warm-up on other routes before taking this one on.
By teece303
From: Highlands Ranch, CO
Aug 25, 2014
rating: 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13

Don't warm up on this route: even better, just don't climb it.

I really loved everything I climbed on the Grendel, until I got to this. A goofy, wandering line with at least one clip placed to hurt a shorter climber. A goofy, out of character traverse to pull a roof that is nowhere near the universe of 5.8 climbing, topped off by a rap or lower that makes cleaning the route a pain.

And then the rating is sandbagged enough that a 5.8 climber could hurt themselves. Bummer of a route. Especially considering the respect I have for the route developers.
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