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Cabbage Patch
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The Monolith 

YDS: 5.11- French: 6c Ewbanks: 22 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 22 British: E3 5c Hueco: V3 Font: 6A R

   
Type:  Trad, Boulder, 30'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.11- French: 6c Ewbanks: 22 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 22 British: E3 5c Hueco: V3 Font: 6A [details]
FA: Lance Bateman
Page Views: 4,008
Submitted By: I.A.N on May 2, 2007

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wedermeyer photo.

Description 

Climb the beautiful diagonaling crack/seam to its end and punch straight up the east face of the prominent monolith below the egg. This route is listed as a project in the bouldering guide to Utah. Steve Heath replaced the quarter-inch bolts on top (thanks Steve!) and was working the line on TR. I decided it would be more fun to try to lead it from the ground on gear before bouldering it, but after placing the final shaky pieces, I decided to work out the crux on TR first. Whatever you choose to do, it's a beautiful line on an incredible boulder. I heard Lance Bateman climbed it long ago...

Location 

Follow the trail past Tom's arete to the huge boulder jutting out of the hill. Walk off.

Protection 

Medium/small TCUs and a hand-sized piece. Small wires. Long runners and a shitty rope (TRing this thing eats ropes up!)


Photos of The Monolith Slideshow Add Photo
The balancy crux
The balancy crux
The crux.  Scary as hell, even with gear.
The crux. Scary as hell, even with gear.

Comments on The Monolith Add Comment
Show which comments
By Adam Winters
Administrator
From: the Shire
May 8, 2007

Ian, that is badass, looks way scary man. I want it, see you in tuolumne...
By jun
Feb 7, 2008

This problem has been bouldered.
Not by me.
By Bad Sock Puppet
Sep 28, 2009
rating: 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c  V3 6A R

This is such an awesome line. Did this on gear and placed a 000 C3 at the very top of the seam, which only griped by 1 1/2 lobes... The crack is super easy, but pulling out of it takes some balls and is very beta intensive for an .11b. Although the gear is fairly shitty, your biggest fall will probably be only 5 feet since it gets easy right after the crux. If you're going to boulder it, then prepare for certain death if you fall at or above the crux.
By I.A.N
Nov 24, 2009

looks like there are a couple of ways to top out. Stand up on the huge foot and bail like Bad Sock Puppet or move up and left to the obvious tilted crimp and black chicken head. Finish Proudly!
By Bad Sock Puppet
Jul 24, 2010
rating: 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c  V3 6A R

Ian if I was half the man you are I might consider myself blessed, but just for the record I do move left to the black chicken head despite getting near the right arete. So in conclusion there is only one way to top out.
By Skat B
From: Down Rodeo
Jan 9, 2013
rating: 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c  V3 6A R

Trad: C3s work. WC Zero cams fit but I would not trust those.
Bouldering: V1/2 R to chicken head; V3 X from chicken head to top.
By Spencer Weiler
From: SLC, UT
Aug 8, 2013

Hard for 11-. At least the onsight burn was. Once you dial in the gear and crux bumping to the obvious black knobber I think it feels about mid 11. Gold, .3, red c3. Gear is a bit figidity and anaerobic to place soundly.
By doug rouse
From: Denver, CO.
May 28, 2014

Uh..5.11a=V1 5.11b/c=V2 5.11d=V3