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Black Wonton, The T 
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The Monkey 

YDS: 5.8+ French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c

Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 70'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.8+ French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c [details]
FA: Al Romano, Bob Kirbach & Arni Jr.
Page Views: 1,602
Submitted By: Mike Baetz on Mar 22, 2008

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Just over the overlap

For access issues: please review cragvt.org


Climb up to the obvious overlap on the left side of the cliff and follow it left, traversing to a crack on its left. Climb the overhang and follow the path of least resistance to the top.


Starts below the right end of a small roof at a finger crack, about 30' from the left side of the cliff.


Standard rack

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By Eli Kramer
From: Saratoga Springs, NY
Oct 22, 2009
rating: 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c

Another great route. I found it to be pumpy but not as technical as the Center Crack. Great hands through the traverse and good feet for most of it. Pulling the roof is the crux, but the unprotected move off the ground is certainly a 5.8 move.
By apeman e
Dec 14, 2011

Gear is great but not always obvious. Poor planning can expose the second to a swing in the middle section.
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