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The Monkey House

Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Face Full of Bush 
Monkey Bars 
Monkey Business 
Monkey Pause 
Monkey See, Monkey Do 
Monkey Shine 
New Pollution, The 
Psycho Hose Beast 
Punishment For Shoplifting 
Reward aka Convicted Felon, The 
Schwing Salute 
Soap on a Rope 

The Monkey House 


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Location: 39.73978, -105.32146 View Map  Incorrect?
Page Views: 10,401
Administrators: Ben Mottinger, Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monomaniac, Kristine Hoffman
Submitted By: Richard M. Wright on Jan 1, 2001
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The Monkey House.

Description 

The Monkey House is the leftward continuation of The Wall of The '90s. There are now 16 or so routes in this sector of the wall. Numbering begins with Psycho Hose Beast (1) which is immediately to the left of New Pollution and continues on up hill to Home Boy Bonanza (18) at the Death Rock. Routes vary in length from 50 - 60 ft to 85 ft, so for the most part a 60 m rope will suffice for everything. The routes face West to North, get good evening sun, and a bit of shade higher up the hill. Overall, the rock quality is superb and worth the five minutes of added hike from The Wall of The '90s.


Getting There 

The Monkey House is immediately West of Tunnel 2, 5.5 up Clear Creek Canyon on 6th Avenue. Parking for several cars is available on the South side of the highway, but this has been recently limited by CDOT. Trails to the base follow the obvious wash or the small ridge line at the parking area.


L->R: 

Death Rock

A. Homeboy Bonanza, 12, 1p, bolts.
B. The Sprawl, 12, 1p, bolts.

Monkey House

C1. Monkey Pause, 1p, 12-, 95', bolts.
C2. Monkey Shine, 10+, 1p, 95', bolts.
D. Face Full of Bush, 1p, 80', bolts.
E. Monkey Bars, 12, 1p, 80', bolts.
F. Monkey Business, 12-, 1p, 100', bolts.
G1? Unknown, 11- R, 1p, bolts, pin, & gear.
G2H? Monkey Puzzle, 10+, 1p, bolts.
H? Unknown, 12-, 1p, bolts.
I. Monkey See, Monkey Do, 12, 1p, 50', bolts.
J. Schwing Salute, 11, 1p, 70', bolts.
K. The Reward aka Convicted Felon, 1p, 60', bolts.
L. Punishment for Shoplifting, 10, 1p, 70', bolts.
M. Psycho Hose Beast, 11-, 1p, 75', bolts.
N. New Pollution, 12, 1p, 40', bolts.


12 Total Routes


['4 Stars',1],['3 Stars',4],['2 Stars',6],['1 Star',1],['Bomb',0]
['<=5.6',0],['5.7',0],['5.8',0],['5.9',0],['5.10',3],['5.11',2],['5.12',7],['5.13',0],['>=5.14',0],['',0],['<=V1',0],['V2-3',0],['V4-5',0],['V6-7',0],['V8-9',0],['V10-11',0],['V12-13',0],['>=V14',0]

The Classics

Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for The Monkey House:
Punishment For Shoplifting   5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ E3 5b     Sport, 1 pitch, 70'   
Face Full of Bush   5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ E3 5b     Sport, 1 pitch, 80'   
Schwing Salute   5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- E4 6a     Sport, 1 pitch, 70'   
Monkey Bars   5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ E5 6b     Sport, 1 pitch, 80'   
Monkey See, Monkey Do   5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ E5 6b     Sport, 1 pitch, 50'   
The Reward aka Convicted Felon   5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ E5 6b     Sport, 1 pitch, 60'   
Browse More Classics in The Monkey House

Featured Route For The Monkey House
Laura in the crux of Convicted Felon.

The Reward aka Convicted Felon 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ E5 6b  CO : Golden : ... : The Monkey House
This is a crimper's delight. It is also good for the reach impaired as there are a lot of tiny intermediates. This is the route just left of Punishment for Shoplifting which is much discussed in the comments for that route.This is continuous, vertical 11- in the bottom half, then cruxy off-vertical climbing on solid rock with variously oriented, small holds from bolts 6 to 8. There are a couple of decent rests before the business. Bonus: the crux clips are pretty easy....[more]   Browse More Classics in CO

Photos of The Monkey House Slideshow Add Photo
A moment in time.
A moment in time.
One fine day.
One fine day.
Comments on The Monkey House Add Comment
Show which comments
By Anonymous Coward
Jul 21, 2004

Has anyone been on or done the route that is listed as a 5.12? project up at the Monkey House that is between the 11c and 10d? Has this had a free ascent (I assume it has)? What is the grade guess? Sweet line that is much harder than it looks.

By Darren Mabe
From: Flagstaff, AZ
Jul 23, 2004

Anonymous... I have toproped the 5.12 line you speak of at the Monkey House. I think it is 5.12b. Near the end is some very difficult steep slab moves with some long reaches for not so positive crimps. I sandbagged my partner into leading it a while ago because I wanted to climb it... "hey, man, its only 12a, I think, give it a go, bolts are close!..."

By John Kelley
From: Sedona, AZ
Aug 1, 2004

Found a pair of shoes on 7/31/04 e-mail and I'll send them to you.

By Darren Mabe
From: Flagstaff, AZ
Dec 6, 2005
Gear Alert

What's the story with the first bolt missing on The Sprawl (on Death Rock)?

By desbien
From: seattle,wa
Feb 11, 2008

NE1 know if this area stays clear of snow etc. during the winter?

By M Lindfors
From: Highlands Ranch
May 17, 2010

The unknown 12 is kind of runout and not fun for tiny (5 foot) people. The top runout is especially bad for short people. My son got on this thinking it was Monkey See and had a really hard time.