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"The Mitten". II 550' 5.8. This is the 40th route on the Eastern Reef Slabs of the San Rafael Swell. ...
A short excursion compared to many of the other slab routes. Location. Drive 3.2 miles from I-70 to a right turn, and then a 1/4 mile brings one to the trail head and sign/map to Uneva Mine Canyon. Walk up the road to the right, and at the top of the hill follow a path north along the slabs to the prominent shorter double slab pinnacles between the much larger slabs of left "Reef Knot" and right "Reefer Madness". About 20 min from trailhead.
P1) Start from the top of the shale wave. 4th class 200' to a ledge.
P2) Straight up open slab to recess and double anchors down and right of a small roof. 200' 5.2
P3) Climb steeply up pockets above anchors, trending right. After about 40' the difficulties ease, continue up to summit and double anchors. 150' 5.8. Register in cairn in notch behind.
F.A. Paul Ross, Layne and Sheridan Potter. June 22, 2004.
#1 Metolius #1 Friend. Two 60m ropes.
Layne on pitch 2
P.Ross on pitch 3
The view from the summit of "A Frayed Not"
BETA PHOTO: The Mitten. Crux is in the shadowed area.