The Missing Link 5.11a
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| Type: | Sport, Alpine, 1 pitch, 90 feet |
| Consensus: | 5.11a [details] |
| FA: | Roy Suggett |
| New Route: | Yes |
| Season: | May through October |
| Submitted By: | Roy Suggett on Sep 6, 2011 |
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BETA PHOTO: North face and final crux of Missing Link
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Description The route starts with consistent 9+ and 10a moves on the east side of the block then traverses around the corner to the north side where the climbing and the rock quality both get harder. At the sixth bolt, use a long runner and then start following the line that arches right. The line that goes left is another route (Jungle Boogie). You must traverse a thin section to a large ledge which is around the corner and not obvious. The traverse is the first crux but really fun. Clip the high bolt on the ledge with a runner. The lower grey hanger is part of the direct start(a.k.a. Java Man). Follow the ramp past two more bolts. The real crux is now getting past the final and twelth bolt. While on the north side you will be out of the sight- line of your belayer...comunication is key while making these crutial clips!
Location This route is the forth climb you come to in the Lower Jungle on the "Welcome Wall." First is "Axl Rose,s Intro", then "Welcome To The Jungle" then "Jungle Boogie" which shares the same start as this route but arches left to another anchor.
Protection Twelve bolts takes you up, around the corner, and past the overhanging crack system to chains. Quickdraws and at least four runners. Note! The bolt on the corner is good but needs some more work... somehow I screwed that one up a bit.
BETA PHOTO: Fun, well-protected moves to start the route
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BETA PHOTO: East side of Missing Link
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BETA PHOTO: As route traverses right around the arete to this ...
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BETA PHOTO: The anchor is at the top of the north side of this...
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| Comments on The Missing Link |
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By Roy Suggett
Sep 28, 2011
| At this point in time this is my favorite sport climb in the Jungle(s) and one of my all time favorites anywhere. The route (the first on this formation) starts with a mix of good and not so good rock that can get you thinking as to the best way to approach the line. After about 15 to 20 feet of this the rock is stellar and develops into a bit of a juggie gym climb. You reach a large flaring crack that allows you to rest a bit and survey the first crux to your right. This is a traverse that is exposed and tricky with the last moves disappearing around the arete where you can not see the big ledge reward and rest. From here, start up the ramp and get in balance for the in-your-face overhanging wall at the top of the ramp. Good foot work and ignoring your screaming forearms will find you jamming through the last and most difficult crux of the route to the chains. Lots of fun even though you are out of sight of your belayer and having to loudly beg for slack then tension then slack again! |
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