The Misanthrope  5.13+

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Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 100 feet Consensus:  5.13+ [details] FA:  Matt Samet New Route:  Yes Submitted By:  Pinklebear on Jul 10, 2003 You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (1) Your todo list: Your stars: Your rating: -none- [change] Your ticklist: [add new tick]

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Closures from February 15- August 15 MORE INFO >>> The closures as of now are route specific. In the main cave of the Fortress the whole west wall, gothdrome, and east wall/ bat cave areas are closed with nesting sites above those areas. Only the central super routes (Daily Planet to Flex Luthor) are open. Once nesting has been determined routes may open. No new routing (noisy power drills) can happen during this time period even in the open area. Avoid loud noises if at all possible. Routes east of the main cave are open. Please no caching of gear on Forest Service land. The forest service has been great in working out a very climber friendly management plan please be responsible! This information is a public crowdsourcing effort between the Access Fund, and Mountain Project. You should confirm closures, restrictions, and/or related dates. Keeping climbing areas open and conserving the climbing environment Seasonal Raptor Closure MORE INFO >>> Voluntary seasonal falcon closure notice for the Fortress of Solitude from February 15- July 31. The closures are route specific. The central super routes (Daily Planet to Flex Luthor) are open. Once nesting has been determined routes may open. No new routing (noisy power drills) can happen during this time period even in the open areas of the main cave. Any routes east of the main cave remain open. Please no caching of gear on Forest Service land. The Forest Service has been very cooperative in establishing this plan; please be responsible.The specific routes to be closed are listed below with numbers from the Rifle/ Western Slope Wolverine Publishing guide book. For the left aerie: The Sandman (not in guide) 5. Lois Lame 8. Blind Date. For the right aerie: Ironman (not in guide) Snake Woman (not in guide) 17. The Kalous Logan 18.The Fuck Up -Bryan Gall This information is a public crowdsourcing effort between the Access Fund, and Mountain Project. You should confirm closures, restrictions, and/or related dates. Keeping climbing areas open and conserving the climbing environment

Description 

This is the route immediately right of Glamorama, and shares the first four or five bolts with that line. It is in the back, rightmost part of the cave, where's it all dark and spooky, before you reach the fractured pillars in the cave's guts. (Some sort of gnomes or stone-throwing pigeons or Hanta mice or something live in there. Beware.)

Climb Glamorama to bolt five, then head directly up the tan face past black Metolius hangers on sidepulls and hidden incuts. Move right into a blue streak (lots of barnacles here) and some good pocket/undercling features. Rest a bit, come back left, then punch into a bouldery crux, with barnacle feet, up a faint rib/offset corner feature to a good flat hold. From here, sustained climbing up the white/tan rock leads to a final step right--across a sort of gully thing--at the last bolt, then up good pockets to the anchors.

You could likely use The Misanthrope to access the top of this part of the Fortress if you wanted to rap-bolt in the area, as a short 5-easy-looking slab/scramble on the hanging wall above the cave would get you up and over.

The route felt temperature dependent, somewhere in the 5.13c range. I dunno. Awaits confirmation.

Protection 

12 quickdraws and a 60-meter rope (mandatory).