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 ADVANCED
West Wall: Pummeling Sector and the Gothodrome
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Blind Date S 
Dirt Pockets, aka Lois Lame S 
Glamorama S 
Misanthrope, The S 
Only Human S 
Pummeling, The S 
Repulsion S 
Sandman S 
Tommy's 11+ S 

The Misanthrope 

YDS: 5.13+ French: 8b Ewbanks: 30 UIAA: X- ZA: 31 British: E7 7a

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 100'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.13+ French: 8b Ewbanks: 30 UIAA: X- ZA: 31 British: E7 7a [details]
FA: Matt Samet
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 577
Submitted By: Pinklebear on Jul 10, 2003

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  • Description 

    This is the route immediately right of Glamorama, and shares the first four or five bolts with that line. It is in the back, rightmost part of the cave, where's it all dark and spooky, before you reach the fractured pillars in the cave's guts. (Some sort of gnomes or stone-throwing pigeons or Hanta mice or something live in there. Beware.)

    Climb Glamorama to bolt five, then head directly up the tan face past black Metolius hangers on sidepulls and hidden incuts. Move right into a blue streak (lots of barnacles here) and some good pocket/undercling features. Rest a bit, come back left, then punch into a bouldery crux, with barnacle feet, up a faint rib/offset corner feature to a good flat hold. From here, sustained climbing up the white/tan rock leads to a final step right--across a sort of gully thing--at the last bolt, then up good pockets to the anchors.

    You could likely use The Misanthrope to access the top of this part of the Fortress if you wanted to rap-bolt in the area, as a short 5-easy-looking slab/scramble on the hanging wall above the cave would get you up and over.

    The route felt temperature dependent, somewhere in the 5.13c range. I dunno. Awaits confirmation.

    Protection 

    12 quickdraws and a 60-meter rope (mandatory).


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