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Sugarloaf, East Face
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Beast of Burden 
Bird Man 
Blue Velvet 
Captain Fingers 
Crushed Velvet 
Dominion 
East Chimney 
Fang-Left Side, The 
Farley 
Fracture, The 
Gallows Pole (direct) 
Grand Illusion 
Harding's Chimney 
Lady Luck 
Lurch 
Mini-Illusion, The 
Monkey Flower 
Morticia 
Opus 7 
Scheister 
South Summit Bolt Ladder 
Stone 
Swallow Tail 
Taurus 
Telesis 

The Mini-Illusion 

YDS: 5.12b French: 7b Ewbanks: 26 UIAA: VIII+ British: E5 6b

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 50'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.12b French: 7b Ewbanks: 26 UIAA: VIII+ British: E5 6b [details]
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Submitted By: Ian Walters on May 4, 2010
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Description 

This route is a bit of a novelty, especially for Sugarloaf. It's all overhanging, slopey fingerlocks, with no feet. Embrace your inner campus-monkey, and go quick!


Location 

This is the left-trending, near-horizontal crack/rail just above the Dominion/Captain Fingers ledge. It's the one with all the fixed draws dangling from it.


Protection 

Bolts, though you might want a #2 for the initial handcrack.



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By LeeAB
Administrator
From: ABQ, NM
Jun 7, 2010

A #2 what??? friend or camalot

By aaron hope
From: Walnut Creek, CA
Apr 21, 2011

Didn't climb this, but checked it out. Bolts are very close together - one could aid the traverse.