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 ADVANCED
Sugarloaf, East Face
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Beast of Burden S 
Bird Man S 
Blue Velvet T,S 
Captain Fingers T 
Crushed Velvet T 
Dominion T 
East Chimney T 
East Face, The T 
Falcon, The S 
Fang-Left Side, The T 
Farley T 
Fracture, The T 
Gallows Pole (direct) T,S 
Grand Illusion T 
Harding's Chimney T 
Lady Luck T 
Lurch T 
Mini-Illusion, The S 
Monkey Flower T,S 
Morticia T 
Opus 7 S 
Over the Edge T 
Pinch a Loaf S 
Scheister T 
South Summit Bolt Ladder S 
Stone T 
Swallow Tail T,S 
Talking Heads T 
Tapestry T 
Taurus T 
Telesis S 

The Mini-Illusion 

YDS: 5.12b French: 7b Ewbanks: 26 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 26 British: E5 6b

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 50'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.12b French: 7b Ewbanks: 26 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 26 British: E5 6b [details]
FA: 
Page Views: 797
Submitted By: Ian Walters on May 4, 2010

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (2)
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Description 

This route is a bit of a novelty, especially for Sugarloaf. It's all overhanging, slopey fingerlocks, with no feet. Embrace your inner campus-monkey, and go quick!

Location 

This is the left-trending, near-horizontal crack/rail just above the Dominion/Captain Fingers ledge. It's the one with all the fixed draws dangling from it.

Protection 

Bolts, though you might want a #2 for the initial handcrack.


Comments on The Mini-Illusion Add Comment
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By LeeAB
Administrator
From: ABQ, NM
Jun 7, 2010

A #2 what??? friend or camalot
By aaron hope
From: Walnut Creek, CA
Apr 21, 2011

Didn't climb this, but checked it out. Bolts are very close together - one could aid the traverse.