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The Millstone

Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Against the Establishment S 
Angle of Repose S 
Blockbuster T 
Bush Doctor T 
Calling All Karmas S 
Cat Juggling S 
Earthling S 
Eraserhead T 
Intelligient Life Form S 
Lead Balloon S 
Maize, The S 
Miller Time S 
Milling About T 
Millstone Slab T 
Moon Walk S 
Odd Get Even, The S 
Pencilneck T 
Personal Jesus S 
Private Hell S 
Stick Figure Stays Home S 
Stone Ground S 
Strong Arm With the Lads S 
Tie Die S 
Yuppie Love S 

The Millstone 


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Administrators: Andrew Gram, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq, Kristine Hoffman
Submitted By: Nathan Fisher on Apr 12, 2004
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BETA PHOTO: The Millstone, as seen from the Lake Blanche Trail...

Description 

An expanse of short but beautiful quartzite. This ribbon of happiness keeps the wanna-be's at bay by it's approach. It consists of mainly sport routes from 5.7 to 5.12b with edges, sidepulls, and pumpy climbing. The views from here are spectacular, both from the base, but more so from the top of the climbs.


Getting There 

Park at the S-curve. Take the trail to Lake Blanche. Don't cross the bridge, but continue up the faint trail, until you can cut across (right) to a large expanse of talus. Climb this talus attaining slabs that lead to the base of the wall. This talus is probably the worst I have ever encountered in the Wasatch.


Climbing Season


24 Total Routes


['4 Stars',0],['3 Stars',9],['2 Stars',12],['1 Star',2],['Bomb',0]
['<=5.6',1],['5.7',1],['5.8',1],['5.9',0],['5.10',9],['5.11',10],['5.12',2],['5.13',0],['>=5.14',0],['',0],['<=V1',0],['V2-3',0],['V4-5',0],['V6-7',0],['V8-9',0],['V10-11',0],['V12-13',0],['>=V14',0]

The Classics

Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for The Millstone:
Millstone Slab   5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c R     Trad, 1000'   
Angle of Repose   5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a     Sport, 1 pitch, 60'   
Private Hell   5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a     Sport, 1 pitch, 60'   
Yuppie Love   5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b     Sport, 1 pitch, 50'   
Miller Time   5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b     Sport, 1 pitch, 70'   
Personal Jesus   5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b     Sport, 1 pitch, 50'   
Stick Figure Stays Home   5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c     Sport, 35'   
Eraserhead   5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c     Trad, 1 pitch, 60'   
Strong Arm With the Lads   5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c     Sport, 1 pitch, 60'   
Earthling   5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c     Sport, 70'   
Lead Balloon   5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c     Sport, 1 pitch, 50'   
Milling About   5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c     Trad, 60'   
The Odd Get Even   5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c     Sport, 60'   
Stone Ground   5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c     Sport, 1 pitch, 60'   
Moon Walk   5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a     Sport, 70'   
Calling All Karmas   5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a     Sport, 1 pitch, 60'   
Browse More Classics in The Millstone

Featured Route For The Millstone
Making that 2nd clip.

Blockbuster 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b  UT : Wasatch Range : ... : The Millstone
On the Northeast face is one steep, bolted line. Blockbuster climbs this line until the bolts end and then it can be protected with gear. A very insecure route with a mean pump and technical climbing as well. The major negative of this route is some considerably loose rock. The crux is after bolt 2, but the entire bolted section is tough, either reachy or technical, and the rock surface down low is polished glass. After the bolt, you are still looking at 5.10 climbing, and kind of pumpy sti...[more]   Browse More Classics in UT

Local Information for The Millstone
Comments on The Millstone Add Comment
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By phUnk
Jun 4, 2007

Headed up to the Millstone on 6/2/2007 for the first time. The talus field was a solid warmup, even though we lost the trail on the way there. We managed to lose the trail on the way back, too, somehow.

I don't think we'll go back up there. The logistics of gearing up, belaying and general "moving around" on that slab are a real pain in the ass. The routes themselves are fun and unique, but you spend more time negotiating the slab and trying to keep your junk from rolling to the bottom.

By zoso
Aug 23, 2011

Ya, climbing outside is a bitch.