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The Millstone

Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Against the Establishment 
Angle of Repose 
Blockbuster 
Bush Doctor 
Calling All Karmas 
Cat Juggling 
Earthling 
Eraserhead 
Intelligient Life Form 
Lead Balloon 
Maize, The 
Miller Time 
Milling About 
Millstone Slab 
Moon Walk 
Odd Get Even, The 
Pencilneck 
Personal Jesus 
Private Hell 
Stick Figure Stays Home 
Stone Ground 
Strong Arm With the Lads 
Tie Die 
Yuppie Love 

The Millstone 


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Administrators: Andrew Gram, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq, Kristine Hoffman
Submitted By: Nathan Fisher on Apr 12, 2004
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BETA PHOTO: The Millstone, as seen from the Lake Blanche Trail...

Description 

An expanse of short but beautiful quartzite. This ribbon of happiness keeps the wanna-be's at bay by it's approach. It consists of mainly sport routes from 5.7 to 5.12b with edges, sidepulls, and pumpy climbing. The views from here are spectacular, both from the base, but more so from the top of the climbs.


Getting There 

Park at the S-curve. Take the trail to Lake Blanche. Don't cross the bridge, but continue up the faint trail, until you can cut across (right) to a large expanse of talus. Climb this talus attaining slabs that lead to the base of the wall. This talus is probably the worst I have ever encountered in the Wasatch.


24 Total Routes


['4 Stars',1],['3 Stars',7],['2 Stars',13],['1 Star',2],['Bomb',0]
['<=5.6',1],['5.7',1],['5.8',1],['5.9',0],['5.10',9],['5.11',10],['5.12',2],['5.13',0],['>=5.14',0],['',0],['<=V1',0],['V2-3',0],['V4-5',0],['V6-7',0],['V8-9',0],['V10-11',0],['V12-13',0],['>=V14',0]

The Classics

Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for The Millstone:
Millstone Slab   5.4 4a 12 IV VD 3c R     Trad, 1000'   
Angle of Repose   5.10a 6a 18 VI+ E1 5a     Sport, 1 pitch, 60'   
Private Hell   5.10a 6a 18 VI+ E1 5a     Sport, 1 pitch, 60'   
Yuppie Love   5.10c 6b 20 VII E2 5b     Sport, 1 pitch, 50'   
Miller Time   5.10c 6b 20 VII E2 5b     Sport, 1 pitch, 70'   
Stick Figure Stays Home   5.11a 6c 22 VII+ E3 5c     Sport, 35'   
Strong Arm With the Lads   5.11a 6c 22 VII+ E3 5c     Sport, 1 pitch, 60'   
Eraserhead   5.11a 6c 22 VII+ E3 5c     Trad, 1 pitch, 60'   
Earthling   5.11a 6c 22 VII+ E3 5c     Sport, 70'   
Lead Balloon   5.11b 6c 23 VIII- E3 5c     Sport, 1 pitch, 50'   
Stone Ground   5.11b 6c 23 VIII- E3 5c     Sport, 1 pitch, 60'   
The Odd Get Even   5.11b 6c 23 VIII- E3 5c     Sport, 60'   
Milling About   5.11b 6c 23 VIII- E3 5c     Trad, 60'   
Moon Walk   5.11d 7a 24 VIII E5 6a     Sport, 70'   
Calling All Karmas   5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ E5 6a     Sport, 1 pitch, 60'   
Browse More Classics in The Millstone

Featured Route For The Millstone
1) Angle of Repose <br />2) Calling All Karmas

Calling All Karmas 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ E5 6a  UT : Wasatch Range : ... : The Millstone
A near impassable variation to Angle of Repose, Calling All Karmas is a short and intense, balance fest! Bouldery in nature and lacking left sided holds, the biggest crux may be finding a good sequence that doesn't pitch you off the arete. Starfish-magnet your way up the first three bolts using what ever you can; in other words, cling to the wall using all four points and hold on tight! Calling All Karmas is the short route on the arete and just right of ...[more]   Browse More Classics in UT

News and Events For The Millstone
Comments on The Millstone Add Comment
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By phUnk
Jun 4, 2007

Headed up to the Millstone on 6/2/2007 for the first time. The talus field was a solid warmup, even though we lost the trail on the way there. We managed to lose the trail on the way back, too, somehow.

I don't think we'll go back up there. The logistics of gearing up, belaying and general "moving around" on that slab are a real pain in the ass. The routes themselves are fun and unique, but you spend more time negotiating the slab and trying to keep your junk from rolling to the bottom.

By zoso
Aug 23, 2011

Ya, climbing outside is a bitch.