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The Milkmaid 

YDS: 5.11b French: 6c Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 23 British: E3 5c

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 50'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.11b French: 6c Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 23 British: E3 5c [details]
FA: Bill Boyle
Page Views: 530
Submitted By: Perin Blanchard on Sep 11, 2010

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Located in a National Forest Fee Area MORE INFO >>>

Description 

A really good mid-11 route with a little bit of everything American Fork has to offer. Starts out essentially vertical, then the angle eases a bit, and ends up slightly overhanging.

Start with some fun liebacking movement through the first couple of bolts, move a bit higher, notice the feet disappear , so stem to the leaning slab to the right. Get back solely onto the face when able and continue up using pockets of varying usefulness (and sharpness).

Near the top the pockets get smaller and, perversely, someone turned most of them the wrong way. Feet are harder to find (but they're there), and a bit of body positioning flexibility will see it though to the chains.

Location 

The right line on the face which is in front of the fixed-rope gully which is at the right side of Bingo Baby. Next to a leaning, detached slab of limestone that lies against the face containing the bolts.

Protection 

7 bolts, chain anchors.


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By KipHenrie
From: centerville, utah
Jun 21, 2011
rating: 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c

2 cruxes. Bottom part especially if u don't cheat and stem! :) Then the upper part is dang tricky on sloping holds and poor feet. I almost took a ride there. The middle part is full of good rests.
By DCrane
From: Taylorsville, Utah
May 31, 2012

Good climb. Had to take once because I missed a killer side-pull/under-cling pocket all together. Can't wait to come back and red-point it.
Those sharp limestone pockets can tear up fingers if you're not careful!
By Mark Lewis
From: Salt Lake City, Utah
Jul 30, 2012

Hard route, but fun. Small pockets all angled the wrong way so they are less useful than they otherwise would be, interspersed with small chert crimpers. Who can resist climbing a route named after the milkmaid anyways?!

NOTE: The large flake at the bottom prior to the first bolt is very hollow sounding and can be felt moving when you give it a few thumps with your hand. If this flake fractured off it would be a significant amount of rock heading right down on your belayer. Be careful. The route can be climbed while avoiding this flake, though that does make it a bit harder. The rock above this flake to the chains is otherwise solid.
By Jeremy Noring
From: Salt Lake City, Utah
Aug 6, 2014

I thought this route was actually pretty awesome--the rock is really good and the holds are super cool. Crux going to the anchors, for sure.