The Milkmaid 5.11b
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Lewis leading off Haggle's belay on The Milkmaid, ...
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Description A really good mid-11 route with a little bit of everything American Fork has to offer. Starts out essentially vertical, then the angle eases a bit, and ends up slightly overhanging.
Start with some fun liebacking movement through the first couple of bolts, move a bit higher, notice the feet disappear , so stem to the leaning slab to the right. Get back solely onto the face when able and continue up using pockets of varying usefulness (and sharpness).
Near the top the pockets get smaller and, perversely, someone turned most of them the wrong way. Feet are harder to find (but they're there), and a bit of body positioning flexibility will see it though to the chains.
Location The right line on the face which is in front of the fixed-rope gully which is at the right side of Bingo Baby. Next to a leaning, detached slab of limestone that lies against the face containing the bolts.
Protection 7 bolts, chain anchors.
Lewis on the start holds for Milkmaid. Note: this ...
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Close up of Lewis using the starting hold on The M...
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Lewis setting up to move past the first bolt on Th...
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Lewis hanging a draw on the second bolt of The Mil...
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Lewis delicately pulling the rope up to make a cli...
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Lewis leading The Milkmaid. Fun pictures from the ...
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By KipHenrie
From: centerville, utah
Jun 21, 2011
rating: 5.11b
| 2 cruxes. Bottom part especially if u don't cheat and stem! :) Then the upper part is dang tricky on sloping holds and poor feet. I almost took a ride there. The middle part is full of good rests. |
By DCrane
From: Taylorsville, Utah
May 31, 2012
| Good climb. Had to take once because I missed a killer side-pull/under-cling pocket all together. Can't wait to come back and red-point it.
Those sharp limestone pockets can tear up fingers if you're not careful! |
By Mark Lewis
From: Salt Lake City, Utah
Jul 30, 2012
| Hard route, but fun. Small pockets all angled the wrong way so they are less useful than they otherwise would be, interspersed with small chert crimpers. Who can resist climbing a route named after the milkmaid anyways?!
NOTE: The large flake at the bottom prior to the first bolt is very hollow sounding and can be felt moving when you give it a few thumps with your hand. If this flake fractured off it would be a significant amount of rock heading right down on your belayer. Be careful. The route can be climbed while avoiding this flake, though that does make it a bit harder. The rock above this flake to the chains is otherwise solid. |
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