Login with Facebook
Feudal Wall (Right Side)
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Arizona Crack T 
Burning Man T 
California Crack T 
Castles Burning T 
Dry Lake T 
Dum Roodle T 
El Rey T 
Mikado, The T 
Minion T 
Noriega Does Panama S 
Panama Canal T 
Panther Crack T 
Pet or Meat T 
Pet Sounds T 
Princess T 
Return of General Noriega, The TR 
Socrates Sucks TR 
Whispering Chickens S 

The Mikado 

YDS: 5.6 French: 4c Ewbanks: 14 UIAA: V ZA: 12 British: S 4b

Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 50'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.7 French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ ZA: 13 British: MVS 4b [details]
Page Views: 2,118
Submitted By: M.Morley on Jan 2, 2003

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (58)
Your todo list:
Your stars:
Your rating: -none- [change]
Your ticklist: [add new tick]
Your opinion of this PAGE:    [0 people like this page.]
Dec. 26, 2012 Erin F. laybacks the first section ...


This is a fun route with a crux about 10' off the deck. Good protection make this an excellent choice for the budding leader.

Gear anchor.

To descend, walk quite a ways left along ledge system and downclimb 4th/low 5th class gully to rhe right of Swishbah.


Light rack.

Photos of The Mikado Slideshow Add Photo
$eth getting set at the base of Princess (left) an...
$eth getting set at the base of Princess (left) an...
Albert Ramirez  10-16-10
Albert Ramirez 10-16-10
Making a valiant attempt.
Making a valiant attempt.
Albert Ramirez  10-16-10
Albert Ramirez 10-16-10
Unknown Climber nears the top of The Mikado.  Phot...
Unknown Climber nears the top of The Mikado. Phot...
The Mikado, beta photo.
BETA PHOTO: The Mikado, beta photo.
Mike Kurilich at the top of his first lead 1987 - ...
Mike Kurilich at the top of his first lead 1987 - ...

Comments on The Mikado Add Comment
Show which comments
Comments displayed oldest to newestSkip Ahead to the Most Recent Dated Feb 2, 2014
By Brian Reynolds
Feb 10, 2003

You can also descend between The Mikado and Crown Jewels by crawling through a small hole and down a couple of wide chimneys. It will drop you a lot closer to your packs, but it's a bit of a grunt and it may not save you much time.
By Kelly
Jun 5, 2003

Absolutely stellar.
By Chris Owen
From: Big Bear Lake
Nov 24, 2003
rating: 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b

The start's a little tricky, a fun route, too short. Should've read the descent beta, ended up climbing over the back and walking around (d'oh!)
By Georg
Dec 5, 2004
rating: 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b

Short but felt a bit stiff for a 5.6. Thanks, Skip!
By Jeffrey Davis
Dec 21, 2004
rating: 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b

Top roped this route with a #11 BD hex #2 camalot, and 2 30' slings, one sling cinched around a rock up top. Mostly large pro needed for TR. There is and easy ascent to set the top rope about 20' left of the duchess, once on top, just keep going over til you get to the climb. Nice crack climb!
By rhyang
From: San Jose, CA
Nov 27, 2006
rating: 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b

A #4 camalot protects the first move. We descended by traversing to climber's left across an exposed ledge system to a bolted rap station.
By Lluis Penalver-Aguila
From: Cambridge, Massachusetts
Mar 16, 2009

Fun short route with the crux at the start of the open book. Above the crux it's a blast and has opportunities for hand/foot jams and holds outside the crack as well.
By Brandontyrrell
Dec 27, 2009
rating: 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b

Great hand jams on the upper section, super fun climb!
By attila
Jan 25, 2010

This is the best 5.6 I've climbed at J Tree.
By Jonesey
Jan 3, 2012
rating: 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b

A nice little climb. You can get off the Feudal Wall from the top of Mikado(and avoid further up- or down-climbing thru nasty-looking chimneys) by traversing West (left) on ledges and through a slot to the belay/rap anchors at the top of Monaco; a short (~60ft) and steep rappel brings you quickly back to the ground.
By Chris D
From: the couch
Feb 2, 2014

Curiously, there are multiple 5.7 moves on this steep 5.6, which manages to be both greasy and grainy at the same time. A lot of fun, and plenty of pro.
Beyond the Guidebook:
The Definitive Climbing Resource
Inspiration & Motivation
to Fuel Your Run
Next Generation Mountain
Bike Trail Maps
Backcountry, Sidecountry
& Secret Stashes
Better Data. Better Tools.
Better Hikes!