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Headache Area
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Headache, The T 
Migraine, The T 

The Migraine 

YDS: 5.11- French: 6c Ewbanks: 22 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 22 British: E3 5c

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 80'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.11- French: 6c Ewbanks: 22 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 22 British: E3 5c [details]
FA: 
Page Views: 478
Submitted By: J. Thompson on Mar 28, 2010

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (4)
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Description 

Start atop the obvious block. Do a couple of Lie back moves(or jam straight in) to get into the short squeeze chimney. Move right out the small roof and lie back up the flake. Pull over a bulge and into a bottomed and flared crack. Pull onto a small ledge. Climb the runout face up and to the right, there is one 1/4 inch bolt with no hanger just before the anchor.

Location 

Approximately 30ft to the right of The Headache.

Protection 

1-2 sets cams from gree Alien to #1 camalot. ! each #2-4. At least 1 nut to sling the hangerless bolt.


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By J. Thompson
From: denver, co
Mar 28, 2010

This is a fun route to do to add a pitch when you climb the Headache.

The anchor bolts need to be updated.

josh
By Aaron Miller
Oct 4, 2014

Agree with Josh. I thought this route was great, really fun and interesting climbing, but I wouldn't recommend anyone do this route until the anchor is replaced. Also, you might as well replace the old 1/4" bolt protecting the crux move, and probably should lower it 3 feet so you can actually clip it before you do the move. Wish I had my bolt kit with me, but alas I live too far away to expect to come back to this soon.