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Headache, The T 
Migraine, The T 

The Migraine 

YDS: 5.11- French: 6c Ewbanks: 22 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 22 British: E3 5c

Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 80'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.11- French: 6c Ewbanks: 22 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 22 British: E3 5c [details]
Page Views: 622
Submitted By: J. Thompson on Mar 28, 2010

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***** RAIN AND WET ROCK ***** The sandstone in Zion is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Holds rip off and climbs have been and will continue to be permanently damaged due to climbers not respecting this phenomenon. After a heavy storm the rock will remain wet, sometimes for several days. PLEASE DO NOT CLIMB IN ZION during or after rain. A good rule of thumb is that if the ground near your climb is at all damp (and not powdery dry sand), then do not climb. There are many alternatives (limestone, granite, basalt, and plastic) nearby. Seasonal Raptor Closures MORE INFO >>>


Start atop the obvious block. Do a couple of Lie back moves(or jam straight in) to get into the short squeeze chimney. Move right out the small roof and lie back up the flake. Pull over a bulge and into a bottomed and flared crack. Pull onto a small ledge. Climb the runout face up and to the right, there is one 1/4 inch bolt with no hanger just before the anchor.


Approximately 30ft to the right of The Headache.


1-2 sets cams from gree Alien to #1 camalot. ! each #2-4. At least 1 nut to sling the hangerless bolt.

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By J. Thompson
From: denver, co
Mar 28, 2010

This is a fun route to do to add a pitch when you climb the Headache.

The anchor bolts need to be updated.

By Aaron Miller
From: Santa Fe, NM
Oct 4, 2014

Agree with Josh. I thought this route was great, really fun and interesting climbing, but I wouldn't recommend anyone do this route until the anchor is replaced. Also, you might as well replace the old 1/4" bolt protecting the crux move, and probably should lower it 3 feet so you can actually clip it before you do the move. Wish I had my bolt kit with me, but alas I live too far away to expect to come back to this soon.

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