Type: Trad, 350 ft (106 m), 3 pitches, Grade III
FA: Carter Jensen, Scott McLeod
Page Views: 2,233 total · 13/month
Shared By: Scott McLeod on Nov 19, 2009
Admins: slim, Andrew Gram, Nathan Fisher, Perin Blanchard, GRK, D C

You & This Route


1 Opinions
Your To-Do List: Add To-Do ·
Your Star Rating:
Rating Rating Rating Rating Rating      Clear Rating
Your Difficulty Rating:
-none- Change
Your Ticks:Add New Tick
-none-
Use onX Backcountry to explore the terrain in 3D, view recent satellite imagery, and more. Now available in onX Backcountry Mobile apps! For more information see this post.
Warning Access Issue: RAIN, WET ROCK and RAPTOR CLOSURES: The sandstone around Moab is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Also please ask and be aware of Raptor Closures in areas such as CAT WALL and RESERVOIR WALL in Indian Creek DetailsDrop down

Location Suggest change

The route is located on the North side of the West face. It is about 40' right of The Value of Audacity, and 100' left of Choir Boys.

Description Suggest change

This is an awesome route that adds some spice to the typical desert splitter experience. The first pitch sports aesthetic, powerful climbing protected by a purple and gray TCU crack leading to a gently overhanging handcrack. The second pitch is quite the opposite: starts wide and gets wider. All in all, it means you bring a lot of little gear and a lot of big gear. There is one bolt on the second pitch. Choose the middle way young grasshopper.

P1- scramble up through somewhat broken rock in the large left-facing corner. After you are about 15' off the ground, place your first decent piece, and gain the ledge up and right. Plug in a couple of purple TCUs and head up using the arete on your left. Follow the thin crack as it bends right and heads up again. Continue to plug purple and gray TCUs. About half way up, bust left through AWESOME face moves, gain the hand crack, and charge to the anchor. 40M 5.12

P2- Head up the ramp until you gain the wide crack with the huge flake sticking out. Work over the flake to the off-width and continue up, doing whatever you need to to stay protected. When the crack gets too wide for your gear, you'll pass a bolt. Continue up to a one bolt anchor. If you can, save a wide piece to double up at the anchor (if you can). This pitch was not done clean by the first ascentionists. 35M 5.11+

P3- Continue up the chimney, bust left at the roof, and gain the top of the climb. A cool bolted line awaits as an alternative last pitch up the huecos on the right. 20M 5.10

DECENT- Don't rap the route, remember the first pitch is 40M. Instead, rap Choir Boyz. When at the top of the climb, scramble to the small "summit" on this side of the Convent (North end) Walk South (not far) til you are just past the highest point, and look for a cairn below a mushroom roof. Just North of the cairn on a distinct ledge is a new and improved rap down Choir Boyz. STICK TO THE CORNER approaching the last rap anchor, otherwise it is easy to find yourself swinging in the breeze!

Protection Suggest change

A lot:
Grey TCU: 3-4
Purple TCU: 3-4
Finger sizes: 2
Tight hands: 2
Hands: 3-4
Wide hands: 3
New #4 Camelot: 2-3
Old #4 or #4.5: 1-2
New #5 Camelot: 2
New #6 Camelot: 1

Photos

loading