The Middle Way
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Middle Way at sunset
This is an awesome route that adds some spice to the typical desert splitter experience. The first pitch sports aesthetic, powerful climbing protected by a purple and gray TCU crack leading to a gently overhanging handcrack. The second pitch is quite the opposite: starts wide and gets wider. All in all, it means you bring a lot of little gear and a lot of big gear. There is one bolt on the second pitch. Choose the middle way young grasshopper.
P1- scramble up through somewhat broken rock in the large left-facing corner. After you are about 15' off the ground, place your first decent piece, and gain the ledge up and right. Plug in a couple of purple TCUs and head up using the arete on your left. Follow the thin crack as it bends right and heads up again. Continue to plug purple and gray TCUs. About half way up, bust left through AWESOME face moves, gain the hand crack, and charge to the anchor. 40M 5.12
P2- Head up the ramp until you gain the wide crack with the huge flake sticking out. Work over the flake to the off-width and continue up, doing whatever you need to to stay protected. When the crack gets too wide for your gear, you'll pass a bolt. Continue up to a one bolt anchor. If you can, save a wide piece to double up at the anchor (if you can). This pitch was not done clean by the first ascentionists. 35M 5.11+
P3- Continue up the chimney, bust left at the roof, and gain the top of the climb. A cool bolted line awaits as an alternative last pitch up the huecos on the right. 20M 5.10
DECENT- Don't rap the route, remember the first pitch is 40M. Instead, rap Choir Boyz. When at the top of the climb, scramble to the small "summit" on this side of the Convent (North end) Walk South (not far) til you are just past the highest point, and look for a cairn below a mushroom roof. Just North of the cairn on a distinct ledge is a new and improved rap down Choir Boyz. STICK TO THE CORNER approaching the last rap anchor, otherwise it is easy to find yourself swinging in the breeze!
The route is located on the North side of the West face. It is about 40' right of The Value of Audacity, and 100' left of Choir Boys.
Grey TCU: 3-4
Purple TCU: 3-4
Finger sizes: 2
Tight hands: 2
Wide hands: 3
New #4 Camelot: 2-3
Old #4 or #4.5: 1-2
New #5 Camelot: 2
New #6 Camelot: 1
Carter on the first pitch
Carter taking off on the second pitch
Nov 19, 2009
Proud! Nice work guys!
Apr 16, 2011
We ripped 2/3 of the p1 anchor under body weight, now there's just one bolt left. Green-alien-ish pieces should work for a backup.
By carter jensen
From: Salt Lake City, Utah
May 29, 2014
The anchor situation has been fixed. The first pitch is the best and is the most likely to see action. It has been rigged so that only one 70m rope is required; there are anchors slightly lower than the original spot. Those who want to do the entire climb (which still hasn't been redpointed) will want to build a belay at the original, higher anchor spot. Those who want to do pitch one after doing Value of Audacity or Choir boyz can do so with a 70m.
I just tr'd pitch one and it felt like .12-. The first crux will be harder for shorter climbers. If you can tolerate the chossy start, the rest of the climb really is quite cool. An amazing arete section, balancy face moves, and a long hand crack finish! 3 each grey and purple tcus will protect the majority of the first half of the climb.