Dangling Pointer
5.12b YDS 7b French 26 Ewbanks VIII+ UIAA 26 ZA E5 6b British
Avg: 1.5 from 2 votes
Type: | Sport |
FA: | Tod Anderson, Magill, May 2000 |
Page Views: | 695 total · 3/month |
Shared By: | richard magill on Apr 30, 2002 · Updates |
Admins: | Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC |
fs.usda.gov/alerts/psicc/al… for additional information and maps.
Description
First of all, this route probably deserves more than one star. However, due to the fact that the route starts in a band of choss, and the crux is in that same band of choss, I couldn't justify it. You will know you are doing the crux correctly if the holds don't break. Any other attempted sequence seems to result in broken holds.
I have seen a couple of climbers start this line and become frustrated with the rock and then quit and do a different line.
If you can get through this 8 foot band of choss, the climbing then turns into excellent 11+ moves up an overhanging wall on solid stone - very fun. It is definitely worth doing (after you have done all the other routes on Digital Tower first).
From the belay ledge (accessed by doing the first pitch of Beta Sponge - see that route description), the next route to right of the belay is Jesus H. Cranker. The next route right of that is The Middle Route.
2 Comments