The Middle Route
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First of all, this route probably deserves more than one star. However, due to the fact that the route starts in a band of choss, and the crux is in that same band of choss, I couldn't justify it. You will know you are doing the crux correctly if the holds don't break. Any other attempted sequence seems to result in broken holds.
I have seen a couple of climbers start this line and become frustrated with the rock and then quit and do a different line.
If you can get through this 8 foot band of choss, the climbing then turns into excellent 11+ moves up an overhanging wall on solid stone - very fun. It is definitely worth doing (after you have done all the other routes on Digital Tower first).
From the belay ledge (accessed by doing the first pitch of Beta Sponge - see that route description), the next route to right of the belay is Jesus H. Cranker. The next route right of that is The Middle Route.
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