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The Middle Finger - History is Tradition
5.11 YDS 6c+ French 23 Ewbanks VIII- UIAA 23 ZA E4 5c British
Avg: 3.1 from 7
votes
Routes in Tiara Rado
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100' Hands T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Agustina's Tower T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Dirty Martini T 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b |
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Disappear/Reappear T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII- 22 E3 5c |
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Double Fist Offwidth T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Eagle Tower-Mother Lover T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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First Impressions T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Flapper T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b |
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Incredible Handcrack of the Monument T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b |
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Jolly Kicks T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII- 22 E3 5c |
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Jolly Tower - Marital Bliss T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c C1 |
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Large Surprises T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Middle Finger - History is Tradition, The T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c |
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Mike's Brother Kenyon T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c |
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Oompah Tower - Ethan Putterman and the Chocolate Factory T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a C1 |
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Second Coming, The T 5.13- 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E7 6c |
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Short, Cupped Hands T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a |
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Sickle T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII- 22 E3 5c |
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Singles T 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b |
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Slaughterfist T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Soren Roof T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a |
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Squeeze Me Macaroni T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c C1 |
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Things Fall Apart T 5.13- 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E7 6c |
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Tunnel Vision T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Unknown, OW/Squeeze T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b |
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Virga Tower-Arch Nemesis T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b C2 PG13 |
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Wide Inside T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a |
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| Type: | Trad, 250 ft (76 m), 3 pitches, Grade III |
| FA: | James Stover, Paul Stoner |
| Page Views: | 2,395 total · 20/month |
| Shared By: | Airbiscuit on Aug 17, 2014 |
| Admins: | Jesse Zacher, Bradley Mark Edwards, Nick Reecy, Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC |
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Description
You cannot crag at the Tiara Rado Buttress without looking across the bench to the other side of the cove and somehow feel that the Monument is flipping you the bird. Uninspiring and typical Monument funk from the front, the backside of this tower reveals excellent stone and a pleasant surprise for the would be adventurer.
Approach from the bench trail, and hike up and around (climber's right) into the alcove to a point where the scree end and the cliff begins.
P1: cross the slabs and go up into some easy chossaneering. Once in the chimney proper, bypass the thrutch via engaging thin fingers up a shallow corner on the left wall to a great ledge and a gear belay on thin cams and nuts; 100' +/-, 5.9.
P2: this is an awesome pitch on awesome stone. Fire up from the pedestal on rattly fingers and climb 110' of varied and sustained bullet hard Wingate that's mostly in the thin hands/fingers to hands size. This pitch deposits you on a large flat shoulder; 110+/-, 5.11.
P3: piece together the face climb to the summit via excellent fixed gear. Pretty fun kinda scary, similar to the summit pitch on the Monolith Spire but not as long or committing; 40' +/-, 5.11.
Descend to the shoulder, then do one long rappel to the ground.
Approach from the bench trail, and hike up and around (climber's right) into the alcove to a point where the scree end and the cliff begins.
P1: cross the slabs and go up into some easy chossaneering. Once in the chimney proper, bypass the thrutch via engaging thin fingers up a shallow corner on the left wall to a great ledge and a gear belay on thin cams and nuts; 100' +/-, 5.9.
P2: this is an awesome pitch on awesome stone. Fire up from the pedestal on rattly fingers and climb 110' of varied and sustained bullet hard Wingate that's mostly in the thin hands/fingers to hands size. This pitch deposits you on a large flat shoulder; 110+/-, 5.11.
P3: piece together the face climb to the summit via excellent fixed gear. Pretty fun kinda scary, similar to the summit pitch on the Monolith Spire but not as long or committing; 40' +/-, 5.11.
Descend to the shoulder, then do one long rappel to the ground.
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