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Mustache Wall
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The Megaplex 

YDS: 5.11c French: 6c+ Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 24 British: E4 6a

   
Type:  Sport, 3 pitches, 300'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.11c French: 6c+ Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 24 British: E4 6a [details]
FA: Lewis,Calder
Page Views: 2,332
Submitted By: Jeff Scheuerell on Jun 30, 2009

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (17)
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The best climb on Moustache Wall? Probably. Megan...

Description 

Excellent three pitch sport route on the right side of the Mustache Wall.

P1- Follows the arete over a small roof up to a two bolt belay stance outside a flared slot. The crux(11c) is low on the pitch, below the roof.

P2-Continues up the crack then takes a wild traverse out left where you encounter a thin move(11c) before traversing back right to the second bolted anchor.

P3-Follow another wild traverse back left that ends with an under cling to a cruxy move up onto the arete. Continue up the arete then follow a series of thin moves back right(another cruxy section) to yet another cruxy move, big reach to a nice hold. From there continue up to a nice ledge with the last two bolt anchor on the left.

Rap the route

Location 

This route is found on the right side of the Mustache Wall, left of Double Dog Dare, starting on the arete on the right side of a chimney route, Master of the Obscure.

Protection 

13 bolts per pitch with bolted anchors and Mussy hooks.
70m rope/two 60's


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By Aerili
From: Salt Lake City, UT
Jun 1, 2011

PLEASE NOTE: you must have a 70 m rope to rappel!!!!

Crazy exposed fun moves as you ascend; makes a sport route feel alpine!
By Wylie
From: Flagstaff, AZ
Jul 19, 2011

1st pitch is OK, 2nd is fun with good moves, 3rd is the best by far.