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The May Fly 

YDS: 5.12+ French: 7c Ewbanks: 28 UIAA: IX ZA: 27 British: E6 6b

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 90'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.12+ French: 7c Ewbanks: 28 UIAA: IX ZA: 27 British: E6 6b [details]
FA: Cody Scarpella, Jeff Wenger 9/09
Page Views: 3,606
Submitted By: WallyFox on Nov 27, 2010

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (5)
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Andy W. in the grips of The May Fly.

Seasonal Raptor Closure starts Jan 15 each year; No top access - private land MORE INFO >>>

Description 

The hardest line at trout! It has been rumored that Tommy Caldwell gave it a 5.13- rating. This is a step into hardcore crack climbing, with potential for some big airtime if you blow the crux. What an amazing route!

Location 

Left of Mr Squiggles.

Protection 

pro to 1/2"
anchors at the top


Photos of The May Fly Slideshow Add Photo
will fly
will fly
Wally Fox on the Mayfly.
Wally Fox on the Mayfly.
Cody at the crux.
Cody at the crux.
Andy setting up.
Andy setting up.
Jeff stepping left.
Jeff stepping left.
The route starts 3 climbs left of Mr. Squiggles.
The route starts 3 climbs left of Mr. Squiggles.
Chuck Becker on The May Fly, Trout Creek Photo: Na...
Chuck Becker on The May Fly, Trout Creek Photo: Na...

Comments on The May Fly Add Comment
Show which comments
By WallyFox
Nov 27, 2010

Anyone have a photo of this route?
By jeffw
Dec 4, 2010

Added a few photos to get YOU psyched Wally. As for the grade, it is definitely a step up in commitment compared other climbs of the same grade at Trout. Still in the same ballpark of difficulty though, and while TC hinted at a slightly harder grade, he thought 5.12+ was fair. Either way the gear is bomber and has been tested many times at the crux.
By Gargano
From: Oakland, CA
Apr 12, 2011

By Max Tepfer
From: Bend, OR
Jun 28, 2013

My only tid-bits to add:
The best line at Trout. Probably one of the best at the grade anywhere.
The whipper's not really that big. Just sideways. If they were bolts, you wouldn't think twice. Think 5.12 finger crack to V4 with a techy 5.11- finish.
Possibly the most perfectly named route in the world.