Route Guide - iPhone / Android - Partners - Forum - Photos - Deals - What's New - School of Rock
Login with Facebook
 ADVANCED
The Main Wall
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
. 
Alchemy 
Anorexic Doughboy 
Bushwhacker 
California Weakender 
Chinese Chicken 
Dame El Oro 
Diminishing Returns 
Double Trouble 
Fall Line 
Fingerlings 
Fire and Sage 
Fissuremen 
Full Clip 
Fun Soup 
Gateway 
Geologic Time 
Gods Must Be Angry, The 
Gold Rush 
Guillotine, The 
Hip to Toe 
JR Token 
Landing a Monster 
Lively Up Yourself 
Long March, The 
May Fly, The 
Midas Touch 
Monster 
Mr. Squiggles 
Out of the Question 
Out Ridin' Fences 
Purple Pinky Eater 
Question Air Box, The 
Redd Alert 
Redside 
Reservation Blues 
River Wide, The 
Sleepy Hallow 
Space Between, The 
Space Mission 
Steelhead 
Suzuki 
Time Bomb 
Two Step Left 
Two Step Right 
U3 
U4 
Unknown 1 
Unknown 2 
Winter Sustenance 
Wondertwins 
Unsorted Routes:

The May Fly 

YDS: 5.12+ French: 7c Ewbanks: 28 UIAA: IX British: E6 6b

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 90'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.12+ French: 7c Ewbanks: 28 UIAA: IX British: E6 6b [details]
FA: Cody Scarpella, Jeff Wenger 9/09
Page Views: 2,996
Submitted By: WallyFox on Nov 27, 2010
Good Page? 1 person likes this page. Your opinion:   

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (5)
Your todo list:
Your stars:
Your rating: -none- [change]
Your ticklist: [add new tick]
Andy W. in the grips of The May Fly.
Seasonal Raptor Closure starts Jan 15 each year; No top access - private land MORE INFO >>>

Description 

The hardest line at trout! It has been rumored that Tommy Caldwell gave it a 5.13- rating. This is a step into hardcore crack climbing, with potential for some big airtime if you blow the crux. What an amazing route!


Location 

Left of Mr Squiggles.


Protection 

pro to 1/2"
anchors at the top



Photos of The May Fly Slideshow Add Photo
will fly
will fly
Wally Fox on the Mayfly.
Wally Fox on the Mayfly.
Andy setting up.
Andy setting up.
Cody at the crux.
Cody at the crux.
The route starts 3 climbs left of Mr. Squiggles.
The route starts 3 climbs left of Mr. Squiggles.
Jeff stepping left.
Jeff stepping left.
Comments on The May Fly Add Comment
Show which comments
By WallyFox
Nov 27, 2010

Anyone have a photo of this route?

By jeffw
Dec 4, 2010

Added a few photos to get YOU psyched Wally. As for the grade, it is definitely a step up in commitment compared other climbs of the same grade at Trout. Still in the same ballpark of difficulty though, and while TC hinted at a slightly harder grade, he thought 5.12+ was fair. Either way the gear is bomber and has been tested many times at the crux.

By Gargano
From: Oakland, CA
Apr 12, 2011

By Max Tepfer
From: Bend, OR
Jun 28, 2013

My only tid-bits to add:
The best line at Trout. Probably one of the best at the grade anywhere.
The whipper's not really that big. Just sideways. If they were bolts, you wouldn't think twice. Think 5.12 finger crack to V4 with a techy 5.11- finish.
Possibly the most perfectly named route in the world.