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 ADVANCED
East Wall Trail
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Beautiful Arete T 
Bin Leadin T 
Blue Pill T 
Dead Hazel T 
First Degree , The T,S 
Matrix, The T,S 
Red Dutch T 
Shark Tooth Flake T 
Skinny Fingers T,S 
Wildcat T 

The Matrix 

YDS: 5.12d French: 7c Ewbanks: 28 UIAA: IX ZA: 28 British: E6 6b

   
Type:  Trad, Sport, 50'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.12d French: 7c Ewbanks: 28 UIAA: IX ZA: 28 British: E6 6b [details]
FA: Marc-Andre Leclerc
New Route: Yes
Season: all
Page Views: 561
Submitted By: Marc-Andre on Mar 27, 2010

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The second crux, deadpoint from a mono crimp to a ...

Description 

Start at the base of the corner and move left onto the face. Make thin, hard face moves past three bolts, using pockets and thin edges. A couple meters above the last bolt reach left to join 'Shark Tooth Flake' directly at a large horizontal jug and climb it easily to the top.

Originally graded 5.13a, Marc later suggested a downgrade to 12d. But the crux highstep is extremely bouldery and remains unrepeated. Who knows?

Location 

Immediately right of Shark Tooth Flake.

Protection 

Three bolts and a peice of gear or two for the finish.


Comments on The Matrix Add Comment
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By MikeW
Jun 1, 2011

Those bolts are oftly close together.....are those my hangers??
By Marco
Jul 6, 2011

Working on a direct start. Anybody care to work it with me?
By MikeW
Aug 10, 2011

Yeah, I'm in I think this can go direct to the hangers
By Marc-Andre
From: Squamish, B.C
Feb 2, 2012

Mike, the bolts are a bit close together, but without any one of them you would deck from every crux, so I think the locations are fairly reasonable. They were also drilled from stances on lead.

Marco, I top roped a direct start today, foot traversing in from the thin arch below Shark Tooth Flake, it went at about 5.11 and a bouldering pad at the base should suffice for protection. I also top roped an additional 10ft or so of face climbing above where I traversed to the jug on the FA. Hopefully I can get up there next week and lead the extension, but I will have to drill the last bolt on lead from a stance ;)
By Marco
Feb 8, 2012

I agree with the bottom sequence going at around .11, I got it last season, but I'm not sure I would use a pad for the start. That ankle busting flake creeps me out. You definitely need one more bolt for the top section, but you're right about reaching to the crack before the top. The Matrix Reloaded:)