Login with Facebook
 ADVANCED
Southeast Face
Select Route:
Arm and Hammer T,S 
Bloody Bolts and Brown Trousers T 
Catholic School Girls Direct T 
Children of the Sun T 
Crown of Thorns T 
Great Ah Ha, The T,S 
Matrix, The T,S 
New Diversions T 
Original Route (aka Gom Jabber) T 
Parental Guidance T 
Perverse Incentive T 
Traditions T 
Volunteer Wall, The T 
Warriors Way T,S 
Whippin' Boy T 
Whiteside Girdle T 

The Matrix 

YDS: 5.12c French: 7b+ Ewbanks: 27 UIAA: IX- ZA: 27 British: E6 6b

   
Type:  Trad, Sport, 8 pitches, 800', Grade III
Consensus:  YDS: 5.12c French: 7b+ Ewbanks: 27 UIAA: IX- ZA: 27 British: E6 6b [details]
FA: FA Arno Ilgner, FFA Arno Ilgner, Brad Carter
Season: Any
Page Views: 2,451
Submitted By: chummer on Jan 14, 2008

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (3)
Your todo list:
Your stars:
Your rating: -none- [change]
Your ticklist: [add new tick]
Your opinion of this PAGE:    [0 people like this page.]
Climbing out of the whitesides hotel steep and exp...

Seasonal Falcon Closure MORE INFO >>>

Description 

A great journey up one of the biggest cliffs in the East. Steep and exposed climbing up high that's runout but well protected at the cruxes. Classic Whitesides climbing that's not to scary compared to some of the others nearby.

Location 

Just right of the Blarney Stone and left of The Warriors Way. Starts on a thin slab with bolts. Climbs straight up to the Whitesides Hotel

Protection 

A bit of everything. Lots of long slings


Comments on The Matrix Add Comment
Show which comments
By ziggy
Nov 3, 2009

This beast is hard! The first pitch is a straight kick in the nuts, with sustained 11c climbing up to a very, very hard crux (V5-6ish). Be prepared to be humbled!
By yevquest
From: Southeast,US
Feb 19, 2010

I agree about the first pitch, a rude wake up call, indeed. A little chossy in spots, like most of Whitesides, but a very nice route. The moves off the Whitesides hotel are quite memorable.
By andjoely
From: Menlo Park, CA
Oct 8, 2010

Gear: blue TCU, #.75 - #2 camalots (a #3 friend would be slightly better than a #2 camalot if you have it), #8 - #11 stoppers, and several long slings. #3 camalot optional and only used on P1.
Note: all belays except for p5 have 2 bolt ring anchors so bailing is easy with one rope.
P1: (5.12c) Climb cool crystal covered slab to bulge. Reach up high to clip bolt (protected by optional #3 camalot), then step back down and climb up through the bulge 5 feet left of the bolt. Continue up the face with one very hard move to anchor (80 feet)
P2: (5.11b) climb up to a bolt then traverse right and climb an incredibly good face to anchor. (90 feet)
P3: (5.11d) Climb steep rock above the belay until the angle lessens. A smeary boulder problem crux bars the way to the anchor. (80 feet) P4: (5.10b) Climb past bolts and some gear to anchor on ledge (90 feet)
P5: (5.11a) Climb up blocky right facing corner, get tricky pro at the top, then climb out the steep roof past 2 bolts into the oracle hole. Continue up and left past a bolt and up to a final directional bolt right before the ledge. Belay from anchor on the right end of the ledge. (80 feet)
P6: (5.11a PG13) climb the face right of the whitesides hotel up and left past bolts and possibly a slung horn to a horizontal crack under a roof. Traverse left and climb up past a horn and bolts to an anchor
P7: (5.11c PG13) Climb up and left past a bolt and some 5.10 moves a bit above a bolt then continue up and right on 5.7 ramp to 5.11c bulge that has a kind of sketchy fall potential onto slabby rock if you blow it after standing up a little.
P8: (5.8) climb the crack to trees, then traverse right 40 feet to two bolt anchor
P9: bushwhack straight in front of anchor then do a boulder problem to gain an easy slab which leads to the top.