|Type:||Trad, 1 pitch, 90'|
|Consensus:||YDS: 5.12a French: 7a+ Ewbanks: 25 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 25 British: E5 6a [details]|
|FA:||Chris Weidner 2/16/08 TR: Matt Samet 2/9/08|
|Submitted By:||Chris Weidner on Mar 15, 2008|
|Climbing reopened after flood MORE INFO >>>|
|Comments on The Masterbator's Edge||Add Comment|
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By Wayne Crill
From: an Altered State
Mar 30, 2008
rating: 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a X
This is a spectacular route: a highly aesthetic line with great position and fun and delicate moves. Were it not for the less than stellar rock down low, I say its a four star neo-classic. Highly recommended, its easy to set up a TR off the Terminal velocity anchor bolts and a sling around a horn. I think this route could become a classic addition to the 5.10 crack-terminal velocity-TR circuit.
I think this route is very similar in grade and severity to the Lion as a fall from the end of the crux on masturbator's could easily result in a serious ledge-strike/ground fall if the belayer is not on top of it. And that's assuming the #00 C3 holds (maybe the crack has "opened up" a bit but I found the #00 C3 -purple- to be the best fit here, I think there is a reasonable chance it'd hold a fall). Rocoto pepper spicy for me.
Great eye, Matt, and impressive rapid ascent, Chris, another great addition to the sand-bag alley area of the West Ridge.