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The Marsupials

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Brogan Spire 
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The Marsupials  


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Location: 44.36989, -121.12336 View Map  Incorrect?
Page Views: 66,518
Administrators: Peter Franzen, Kristine Hoffman (sitewide)
Submitted By: Karsten on Feb 2, 2006
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Staender Ridge and the Marsupials

Seasonal Raptor Closure 2012 MORE INFO >>>

Description 

The Marsupials are a remote collection of rock outcrops and towers on the east side of the park. The long approach keeps many away but those that make the trek will enjoy classic climbs and perhaps feel what Smith was like decades ago. Recently the marsupials have seen a great deal of new route development.

Like most places at Smith the rock varies. Many of the new routes still have loose nubbins but should improve with time.

Getting There 

Plan on about an hour to reach most of the Marsupials formations.

From the parking area head down the main trail, cross the bridge and turn right. Follow the trail until you near a series of basalt collumns. Head left up a series of switchbacks to an old road. From the road you can access any of the Marsupial formations.

Climbing Season



Weather station 7.3 miles from here

51 Total Routes

['4 Stars',2],['3 Stars',25],['2 Stars',21],['1 Star',3],['Bomb',0]
['<=5.6',8],['5.7',5],['5.8',5],['5.9',2],['5.10',20],['5.11',10],['5.12',1],['5.13',0],['>=5.14',0],['',0],['<=V1',0],['V2-3',0],['V4-5',0],['V6-7',0],['V8-9',0],['V10-11',0],['V12-13',0],['>=V14',0]

The Classics

Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for The Marsupials:
Round River   5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c     Sport, 3 pitches, 250'   Koala Rock
South Buttress   5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a X     Trad, 3 pitches, 300'   Brogan Spire
Cave Route   5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b X     Trad, 3 pitches, 250'   Brogan Spire
Round There   5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b     Sport, 1 pitch   Koala Rock
Living Blindly   5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b     Sport, 3 pitches, 250'   Tail and Opossum
Birds in a Rut   5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b     Trad, 6 pitches   The Wombat
Carla The Stripper   5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c     Sport, 2 pitches, 180'   Mud Pile
Marsupials Traverse   5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R     Trad, Sport, 8 pitches, 1000'   Mud Pile
Death Of a Raven   5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c     Sport   Brogan Spire
Suck my Kiss   5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a     Sport   Koala Rock
Round River Direct   5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a     Sport, 1 pitch, 70'   Koala Rock
Delirium Tremens   5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a     Trad, 1 pitch   Delirium Tremens
Thin Air   5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a     Sport, 3 pitches, 200'   Koala Rock
Short Sharp Shock   5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b     Sport, 1 pitch   Brogan Spire
Ryan's Arete   5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b     Sport, 75'   Koala Rock
Buffalo Power   5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b     Sport, 1 pitch, 75'   Koala Rock
Cool Air   5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c     Sport, 1 pitch, 85'   Koala Rock
To Live is to Die   5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c     Sport, 80'   Koala Rock
King of Pain   5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c     Sport, 1 pitch, 80'   Koala Rock
Pouches   5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a     Sport, 1 pitch, 70'   Brogan Spire
Browse More Classics in The Marsupials

Featured Route For The Marsupials
pitch 1

Thin Air 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a  OR : Smith Rock : ... : Koala Rock
Great 5.10 multi pitch! 1st pitch requires gear and the rest is bolted. Where the trail meets the crag you will be at the base of the climb.Pitch 1:Follow thin crack up to a bulge. Pull the bulge and follow the crack/face above to a bolted anchor. (5.9 120 ft.)Pitch 2: Crack through some bulges on excellent rock up and right to another bolted anchor. (5.10a 60 ft.)Pitch 3: Finesse a step bulge just above the anchor then wander up and right to another bulge. Above the last bulge climb huge holds ...[more]   Browse More Classics in OR

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