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Buddhist Pest 
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Mantra, The 

The Mantra 

YDS: 5.11b French: 6c Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- British: E3 5c

   
Type: Sport, TR, 1 pitch
Consensus:  YDS: 5.11b French: 6c Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- British: E3 5c [details]
FA: Richard Rossiter and Gail Effron, June 1996
Page Views: 594
Submitted By: Kreighton Bieger on Jan 1, 2001
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BETA PHOTO: Mantra. Hard moves at the start and at the overla...

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Description 

The Icon is easily located if you hike down the west approach trail to Dream Canyon. It looms on your left, about 50' above the creek and is a narrow slab with a steep gully on the right and a line of bolts along the right arete.

Easy climbing (5.6 or so) leads to a high first bolt just above the first crux. Only those with long arms or taller than 5'6" be able to reach this first bolt! (Trust me I'm 5'6") Do hard moves over the lip with a bad left undercling, then follow the bolts through easier climbing over to the arete. The moves at the fifth bolt are the other crux. Superb climbing - lots of no hands rest and good footwork required. Lower off about 80 feet.


Protection 

A scramble up the gully on the left would reach the anchors for toproping. Two bolts w/ rings. The arete is hard to toprope due to swing potential. Bring eight quickdraws.



Photos of The Mantra Slideshow Add Photo
Brent just before the crux.
Brent just before the crux.
Comments on The Mantra Add Comment
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By Anonymous Coward
Jan 1, 2001

Young Doug - Ha Ha! a lot of calf pumping here! one of the more interesting routes in the area. A route to make you think! what a concept.

By Anonymous Coward
Jun 4, 2001

A vexing pitch. If you on-site this w/o advice from below once you realize your first instinct(s) is wrong, you deserve something enjoyable in a dark room. Joe L.

By Ivan Rezucha
From: Fort Collins, CO
Aug 26, 2006

Had fun on this, but was rushed due to approaching darkness. Hard move to start and harder move at the arete which I barely stuck. Slabby 5.9 moves to the top keep you focused.

By Jason Kaplan
From: Glenwood ,Co
May 15, 2009

This route is great. Cool position, fun moves.

By Brianna Bemel
From: Amsterdam, Noord Holland
Aug 29, 2010
rating: 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- E4 6a

It is certainly hard to clip the first bolt for anyone 5'6 or shorter. I brought a 0.5 cam with a runner to throw in on the right before making the first move to the bolt...it would have been very scary otherwise.
Awesome climb! Sustained, slabby, and thoughtful.

By Nick Wilder
Site Landlord
From: The Bubble
Aug 6, 2011
rating: 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- E4 6a

I found it fine reaching the first bolt (at 5' 7"), but really struggled at the 5th. That one move is honest 5.11a - which means 5.11d in Boulder Canyon.