Type: Trad, 90 ft (27 m)
FA: unknown
Page Views: 989 total · 9/month
Shared By: bernard wolfe on Nov 3, 2014
Admins: Stonyman Killough, Luke Cornejo, saxfiend

You & This Route


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Description Suggest change

Another (barely) one-star Steele classic!

Climbs better than it looks.

Pros: Nice and long. Balcony views off Chandler Mnt.

Cons: Slab trolling. Route is broken by two substantial balcony ledges. Poor quality rock in roof area

Approx. 10 feet to the right of Welcome to Steele, and just before the 30-foot free standing stone, from the base of the cliff, scramble up a little 8-foot high portion of cliff to gain a grass/leaf littered nook (belayer might want to settle in at this spot as well). Look up and you'll see a 10-12 foot body-width slot. Stem/jam up slot to gain ledge. Continue up nicely-featured wall. Avoid the suspect/sketchy semi-detached plate structure to your left and cruise up towards a patch of grapevine. Scoot around the vines on the left and move under a roof. Poor rock quality here but key holds are beefy. Pull through roof and onto a headwall covered with a variety of features of all types. This slabs out to another ledge and from here you have two options:

1. Finish up 5.6-5.7 knobs and blobs to reach the Welcome to Steele anchors.

2. Step forward to an attractive 35 foot, slightly overhanging face just on the other side of the WtS arĂȘte. Power up this bouldery finish to an independent set of anchors. Note that your belayer will not be able to have visual contact with you during this section of the climb

Location Suggest change

Wolfe Wall. Just about right where the trail up to Wolfe Wall hits the cliff, this route is on the furthest right portion of competent cliff along that section. There is a 30-foot, free-standing, "headstone" -like feature immediately right of the start of this route

Protection Suggest change

This is a mixed route. Light rack, no small nuts, fairly good spread of cams (there are possible, but not critical, 3 to 4-inch placements).

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