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Unsorted Routes:

The Mangler 

YDS: 5.11b French: 6c Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 23 British: E3 5c

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 60'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.11b French: 6c Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 23 British: E3 5c [details]
FA: Manuel Rangel
Page Views: 655
Submitted By: Mike on Nov 14, 2007

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (13)
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BETA PHOTO: Past the crux and cruising on fun holds. Photo by...

Description 

Climb the arete past several bolts. The crux is near the bottom, making a reachy move up and left to a nice pocket, then up and right on smaller holds to a decent rest on the arete. Cruise on nice holds to the top.

Location 

Located a bit upstream, just past the dam, on the south side (opposite of the road) on a nice arete.

Protection 

Well bolted.


Photos of The Mangler Slideshow Add Photo
Laurel just past the crux with Manny belaying.
BETA PHOTO: Laurel just past the crux with Manny belaying.
Nick working up the Mangler.  Great climb, still a few loose bits to watch out for.
Nick working up the Mangler. Great climb, still a...

Comments on The Mangler Add Comment
Show which comments
By susan peplow
From: Joshua Tree
Jul 19, 2008

Tried to lead this little gem today. After the first bolt I was completely shut down by lack of nerves to get to the second. Ledge fall...ground fall highly probable. Humid day mid-summer with funky and committing moves up the arete.

Lieback (check) feet up (check) possible mangler (check) = no go! Too nervous. Maybe next time.

I'm blaming it on the weather. Couldn't possibly be me, right?

On a side note, looks like a great line Manny.
By David Arthur Sampson
May 20, 2009

Susan
This route does, at first, seem a bit heady. I know, because I also saw what you did (a year ago or so). I went back with Laurel (last Sat) and, really, it is safe. A key bomber left hand pocket (can be reached from the ledge, with some effort) lets you safely clip the second bolt. From there a heady (safe) move to good holds lets off to a nice climb to the top.
By brucy
Apr 17, 2010

A crux that's definitely easier if 6' or taller. We too thought the protection to be ego-based at the start, consequently not "well bolted".
By Peter Franzen
Administrator
From: Phoenix, AZ
Oct 15, 2011
rating: 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c

I found this to be a really nice route. I didn't have any issues with the bolting, but I'm 6'1" so the crux down low was not as much as an issue as it probably is with shorter people.
By manuel rangel
From: Tempe, Arizona
Dec 13, 2011

I pretty much put the bolts where I could hang on and clip them. If someone else has a suggestion about where I can improve my ego-based drilling, send me a pm. Promise I'll look at changing if it's a better placement. I worked and worked to make sure it was safe. Still scares me everytime I lead it though.

Laurel is shorter than me. You can see evidence on the photo that she can do the crux safely.
By Geir
From: Tucson, AZ
Dec 13, 2011

Just a note to say I have never known Manny to bolt something based on ego; he is a very thoughtful route developer.
By jeffrey c gibson
From: pheonix az
Mar 26, 2012
rating: 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c

New favorite route in Atlantis! Great job on this one!!
By Rob Phillips
Dec 2, 2013
rating: 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c

I don't know if the bolts have been moved since 2011, but they seemed thoughtfully placed to me. **Spoiler Alert** First was easy to clip from the ledge to the right and the second, from the big pocket on the face to the left. The climbing was splendid! My favorite in the area for sure.