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Isis Buttress
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Man Who Loved Cat Dancing, The 
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The Man Who Loved Cat Dancing 

YDS: 5.11a French: 6c Ewbanks: 22 UIAA: VII+ British: E3 5c

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 150'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.11a French: 6c Ewbanks: 22 UIAA: VII+ British: E3 5c [details]
FA: Kimball & Salaun, 1979
Page Views: 390
Submitted By: david goldstein on Jul 2, 2004
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Starting the 11 section. Greg had 2 brass nuts, th...
Season raptor closures MORE INFO >>>

Description 

This climb works up the left edge of south face of the Isis Buttress. It features fairly typical low angle Lumpy climbing on bottoming, hard to protect cracks.

Start on a pillar at the SW corner of the buttress. Climb easily for about 30' to a short left facing corner that forms the left side of a "hanging tooth." Work up the corner to a face and to another left-facing corner; this 30' section is continuously challenging as is protecting it, though with enough effort, good pro can be had -- mostly small wires. The crux is at the top of the 30' section after which you step left onto the the west face and join Pharaoh's Child for about 70' of enjoyable 5.8ish crack climbing. Belay at the second tree from which you also rap; a single 60m rope would probably reach the ground, but we had double ropes and rapped on both.


Protection 

RPs to 2" with the emphasis on the small end.



Photos of The Man Who Loved Cat Dancing Slideshow Add Photo
Beginning the 10 section. King Tut and Rameses are to the right. The fallen tree at the bottom is useful if you are rapping off the King Tut bolts.
Beginning the 10 section. King Tut and Rameses are...
At the top of the corner on the 10 section. From here you angle right across shallow grooves with not much gear and not much to hold or stand on.
At the top of the corner on the 10 section. From h...
John Tormalehto. 6-17-06.
John Tormalehto. 6-17-06.
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By Ivan Rezucha
From: Fort Collins, CO
Jun 5, 2008

After the crux, we moved right to the two-bolt anchor of King Tut. A 70m just makes it to the ground. With a 60m, you should be able to get to some ledges from which you can scramble down.