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Man Who Loved Cat Dancing, The 
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The Man Who Loved Cat Dancing 

5.11a

   
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Type: Trad, 1 pitch, 150 feet
Consensus: 5.11a [details]
FA: Kimball & Salaun, 1979
Submitted By: david goldstein on Jul 2, 2004

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (2)
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Beginning the 10 section. King Tut and Rameses are...

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Description 

This climb works up the left edge of south face of the Isis Buttress. It features fairly typical low angle Lumpy climbing on bottoming, hard to protect cracks.

Start on a pillar at the SW corner of the buttress. Climb easily for about 30' to a short left facing corner that forms the left side of a "hanging tooth." Work up the corner to a face and to another left-facing corner; this 30' section is continuously challenging as is protecting it, though with enough effort, good pro can be had -- mostly small wires. The crux is at the top of the 30' section after which you step left onto the the west face and join Pharaoh's Child for about 70' of enjoyable 5.8ish crack climbing. Belay at the second tree from which you also rap; a single 60m rope would probably reach the ground, but we had double ropes and rapped on both.


Protection 

RPs to 2" with the emphasis on the small end.



Photos of The Man Who Loved Cat Dancing Slideshow Add Photo
At the top of the corner on the 10 section. From here you angle right across shallow grooves with not much gear and not much to hold or stand on.

At the top of the corner on the 10 section. From h...

Starting the 11 section. Greg had 2 brass nuts, the lower one really small, and the upper one better, backed up by a doubtful cam in a shallow pocket.

Starting the 11 section. Greg had 2 brass nuts, th...

John Tormalehto. 6-17-06.

John Tormalehto. 6-17-06.


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By Ivan Rezucha
From: Boulder, CO
Jun 5, 2008

After the crux, we moved right to the two-bolt anchor of King Tut. A 70m just makes it to the ground. With a 60m, you should be able to get to some ledges from which you can scramble down.