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Sugarloaf, West Face
Routes Sorted
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Crack Face 
Fat Merchant Crack 
Happy Face 
Man Who Fell to Earth, The 
Only the Young Die Brave 
Pony Express 
TM's Deviation 
Twist and Shout 
Under the Spreading Atrophy 
West Chimney 

The Man Who Fell to Earth 

YDS: 5.11b French: 6c Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- British: E3 5c

Type:  Trad, Sport, TR, 1 pitch, 80'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.11 French: 6c+ Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- British: E4 5c [details]
FA: Paul Crawford, Dan Osman
Page Views: 774
Submitted By: Brian Quiter on Mar 8, 2005
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You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (10)
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BETA PHOTO: Man Who Fell to Earth (5.11b)


The Man Who Fell to Earth shares its beginning with 'Only the Young Die Brave' at a very narrow crack that widens to wide fists above a shelf. Upon mantling a small ledge, clip the first bolt and traverse up-and-left (crux) across the face to a series of huge knobs (still difficult). Follow these up to a small roof, pull it then go to the anchors.I should mention that I did NOT see separate anchors for this climb, and instead moved right to anchors shared with 'Only the Young Die Brave'

There is also a run-out 5.11c variation that moves up to the third bolt from the left.

If we had 5 stars in our rating system this would have received 4 from me. I thought it was a lot of fun.


5 bolts to a 2 bolt anchorbring a small piece (~.4) to protect the starting crack.

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By 426
Mar 21, 2007

A classic very different in nature from it's neighbor...

By tallmark515
From: San Francisco
Mar 31, 2009

Gear not really necessary in the begining, the crack is easy and the first bolt is not far away (if I remember correctly).

Crux for me was traversing left to the knob. Fell several times, finally did it dynamically and landed the knob. The route is still tricky afterward as it moves up through the knobs.

By Colonel Mustard
From: Reno, NV
Dec 27, 2013

A finger-sized piece before the mantle seems warranted. Tricky, fun climbing.