|Sugarloaf, West Face
The Man Who Fell to Earth shares its beginning with 'Only the Young Die Brave' at a very narrow crack that widens to wide fists above a shelf. Upon mantling a small ledge, clip the first bolt and traverse up-and-left (crux) across the face to a series of huge knobs (still difficult). Follow these up to a small roof, pull it then go to the anchors.I should mention that I did NOT see separate anchors for this climb, and instead moved right to anchors shared with 'Only the Young Die Brave'
There is also a run-out 5.11c variation that moves up to the third bolt from the left.
If we had 5 stars in our rating system this would have received 4 from me. I thought it was a lot of fun.
5 bolts to a 2 bolt anchorbring a small piece (~.4) to protect the starting crack.
Mar 21, 2007
A classic very different in nature from it's neighbor...
From: San Francisco
Mar 31, 2009
Gear not really necessary in the begining, the crack is easy and the first bolt is not far away (if I remember correctly).
Crux for me was traversing left to the knob. Fell several times, finally did it dynamically and landed the knob. The route is still tricky afterward as it moves up through the knobs.
|By Colonel Mustard|
From: Reno, NV
Dec 27, 2013
A finger-sized piece before the mantle seems warranted. Tricky, fun climbing.