Type: Trad, 6 pitches, Grade III
FA: John Taino 7/31/85
Page Views: 1,989 total · 17/month
Shared By: Dakota from North Dakota on Oct 21, 2014
Admins: Andrew Gram, Nathan Fisher, Perin Blanchard, GRK, D C

You & This Route


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Use onX Backcountry to explore the terrain in 3D, view recent satellite imagery, and more. Now available in onX Backcountry Mobile apps! For more information see this post.
Warning Access Issue: Seasonal Raptor Closures ***** RAIN AND WET ROCK ***** The sandstone in Zion is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Holds rip off and climbs have been and will continue to be permanently damaged due to climbers not respecting this phenomenon. After a heavy storm the rock will remain wet, sometimes for several days. PLEASE DO NOT CLIMB IN ZION during or after rain. A good rule of thumb is that if the ground near your climb is at all damp (and not powdery dry sand), then do not climb. There are many alternatives (limestone, granite, basalt, and plastic) nearby. Seasonal Raptor Closures DetailsDrop down

Description Suggest change

P1: 5.10+ pg
Great but difficult to protect hands to fingers up a thin flake system. Continue up the crack system to a few airy and fun thin fingers moves over a short roof. Climb past the star drive and belay at a small ledge with one modern bolt.

P2: 5.10
The crack widens and the gear becomes more confidence inspiring. Belay at a big ledge with two star drives. Back them up with #2 Camalot. Or was it #1?

P3:
Walk across the big ledge around the boulder for 20ft. A three bolt belay is around the corner. At least one of them is a modern bolt

P4: 5.9
Cruise straight up to another two bolt anchor on a big ledge. Watch out for the damn cactus up there.

P5: 5.7
Short set of moves past pins gains the pine tree belay. Watch rope drag.

P6: 5.11+ or A0+
Bolt ladder to the summit. First bolt is missing a hanger. Do a few free moves to get past the gap in bolts higher up. 

Decent Suggest change

From the summit 3 single rope raps gain the p3 ledge. From there a double rope rap will get you to the dirt

Location Suggest change

Obvious flake system left of the alcove. Base of the route faces Ataxia

Protection Suggest change

lots of star drives

Rack:
Nuts/offsets
Doubles .2-4" less will work, PG either way
2 60m ropes
Knife and webbing/cord to replace rap anchors

Photos

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