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Armed and Dangerous Area (Main Cliff Left)
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The Maltese Falcon 

YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c

   
Type:  Sport, 50'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c [details]
FA: Keith Becansoll 2011
Page Views: 1,314
Submitted By: lee hansche on Apr 5, 2012

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (33)
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Sydney (9yo) heading up the slabby section of Malt...

Description 

This comes with a batch of new routes that have been heavily cleaned over many months on the right side of the A+D wall. This one is just to the left of Ali Babbler.

Climb a blocky start to a slab crux on the upper wall.

This will be a good way to get to the Millennium Falcon ledge once it cleans up a bit.


Location 

Starts from a big tree next to the trail to Ali Babbler from A+D. Climbs 15 feet left of Ali Babbler.


Protection 

bolts to anchors.



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Comments displayed oldest to newestSkip Ahead to the Most Recent Dated Sep 17, 2013
By ed esmond
Apr 9, 2012

for some reason, i thought it was called the "Milquetoast Falcon."

By Matt Wilson
From: Bethel, Vermont, USA
May 29, 2012
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a

Good climb to practice your foot work.

By S. Neoh
Jun 16, 2012
rating: 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c

More fun than I had thought. Solid 2-stars.
The short section between the top of this climb and the low/start anchors for Millennium Falcon is loose and dirty. I knocked off a bunch of stuff rapping off the start anchors of Millennium Falcon at the end of the day when no one was climbing on this newly opened section of cliff.

By Ming
Jun 21, 2012
rating: 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c

Tricky feet - harder than the 5.8 slabs at the Meadows I think.

By Brendan Blanchard
From: Strafford, NH
Jul 17, 2012
rating: 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c

Really fun slab, would be better than Green Mile if it had cooler features/aesthetics. Great movement through the upper wall though. Traffic is what it needs most!

By Chris Duca
Administrator
From: Havertown, PA
Mar 17, 2013
rating: 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c

I thought this was a very fun route. Climbs a lot like a Gunks' route.

By Jeffrey LeCours
From: New Hampshire
Mar 24, 2013
rating: 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c

Fun climb. Great for kids as it gets them halfway up with little effort and my girls seem to do well on small edges / slab.

Unlike the rest of the routes at A&D the clipping stance for the anchors isn't as casual. Sydney had trouble finding a way to stand and pull slack for the quick clips.

By MLevine
From: Nashua, NH
Mar 27, 2013

This is a really fun climb. Highly recommended.

By J Meagher
Apr 4, 2013
rating: 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c

This is probably my new favorite route at Rumney. Awesome slab climbing on nice incut crimps with a cool reach out left at the top. I like this because its a lot more 'friendly' looking than some of the jagged/sharp climbs like Rainbow. This has great, safe bolting for the novice leader.

By M Sprague
Administrator
From: New England
Apr 18, 2013

Better than I expected. It is a nice little climb. A grinder needs to be found for some of the extra bolts though.

By S. Neoh
Apr 18, 2013
rating: 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c

They are not so bad, Mark; they are dark grey glue-ins and not bright SS hangers. A good confidence building route for those just starting out. You still remember those days, Mark?

By M Sprague
Administrator
From: New England
Apr 18, 2013

I was thinking of the extra couple that are out of line with the others. I think he put them in then decided they should be to the side more, so put new ones in, but didn't have a way to remove the first. On the two routes going out the roofs to the left, IMO, the lower bolts up the 5.1 starts were unneeded and only added to the gridbolt effect.

By M Sprague
Administrator
From: New England
Apr 22, 2013

Keith was able to remove one of the extra bolts this weekend.

By Russ Keane
Sep 17, 2013

Great route!

The first half is easy, yet enjoyable. Then the real business begins. Up top is some gnarly, crimpy, very challenging face climbing, with tricky positions to get clipped in. It was AWESOME for a 5.8. The challenges are unique. Getting to the last bolt before the anchor was a leftward move, very tough... then getting into the anchor was tough as well.

A truly exhilerating sport climb, one of my favorite leads at Rumney so far.