BETA PHOTO: This is a beta photo of the lower wall. There are ...
Mt. Nebo Wilderness on south side of Santaquin Canyon. MORE INFO >>>
The Mount Nebo Wilderness boundary parallels approximately 100-200 yards south of the Santaquin Canyon road from the mouth of the canyon to Tinney Flat Campground. Wilderness rules apply within the wilderness area (nothing mechanized or motorized allowed, including power drills).
This information is a public crowdsourcing effort between the Access Fund,
and Mountain Project. You should confirm closures, restrictions, and/or related dates.
Ok, I'll admit. I don't know what any of these routes are called, or what their ratings are. That's what this place is for. If you know something is wrong, post a comment & I'll change it. With the hundreds of routes up there and no good info, what are we to do other than hope we get on a doable route.
Probably the first thing to do would be to go to Mountainworks and ask about Santaquin. You'd probably find out some good information that they can share. One of the main things you'd find out is that the first ascencionists don't want their route information published in a guide book or on a website anywhere, otherwise they'll go up and remove the bolts.
Another good thing to do is to only put up information on routes that you've actually climbed.
I'm trying to follow the actual rule #1 "don't be a jerk." With that said, say I walk into mt.works & say, "you know that big wall up by the cattle guard near the top of the canyon? The one right before that campground up top? Well I was wondering why I can't seem to get past the second bolt on the second one from the right. What the hell is that thing rated anyway?" come to find out, I've wasted half a day driving to Provo to find out that climb was well outside my ability. Wouldn't it be nice if someone posted some info on it? Wouldn't it be nice if we as a community stopped hoarding areas? I think it would be awesome if we as a community came together and said, this is public property, and as such, the information should be as well. If you know something is miss labeled, or completely incorrect, post the correct info, and it'll get changed. If the FA's wanna chop their bolts, I guess they have just as much right to do so as I do posting info on them.
The guys who put those routes up have bolted developed and bolted hundreds of routes that the rest of us have enjoyed over the last 20 years. All they ask in return is some anonymity for one of the several crags that they developed.
Back in the day, going to Mountainworks and getting first hand beta from Jeff and Bill then climbing the routes was part of the coolness of climbing there, and Maple too- before it blew up. I'm sure Darren is just as accommodating.
I live in AZ now, so it may seem like it isn't my business, but I feel obliged to put my two cents in since I spent so many days climbing routes those guys put up and got a lot of good betafrom them as well. I usually think "secret" crags are lame. I don't really consider Santaquin secret, it just takes a little more work than pulling the beta up on MP.com and driving up there.
Also, the info that is on there is absolutely useless.
Well, not all the info is wrong. The "Getting There" is spot on, and all the bolt placements are a result of countless hours of spotting each bolt and transfering the location to the topo's.
As far as the little lines between the bolts designating the supposed route, well that is where it appeared the route could/should go. And I agree, "Secret Area's" are lame but to say that Santaquin Canyon is not a secret area is obviously wrong. Just because the FA parties don't want the info out there?
What about those of us who live here, not AZ, AK, MS, or even Orem for that matter, those who spend their time in Santaquin. But that's cool, let's keep it from everyone who isn't in the "IN" and I'll continue climbing and posting all the climbs that I send asking for the proper information.
We just climbed Maple last weekend, and while there were a lot of people, we didn't have any problem finding routes to send. It was a pure joy to climb there, and even though nearly every campground was full, and every parking space filled, the walls are so loaded with routes that it's still easy to find a route to climb. Maple in my opinion is well suited for high traffic.
jsnstwrt, you misunderstand the motivation behind the reluctance to publish information. It has nothing to do with money.
There are four men who between them have developed equally the vast majority of the routes in Santaquin. I know three of the four, although only one well. My knowledge of the situation comes from him.
Two of the route developers wanted to publish the routes in a future guidebook and two did not.
The motivation for not wanting to publish the information is, as I understand it, two-fold: First, to keep one place along the Wasatch Front as a somewhat adventurous place (as far as sport climbing can be) where new things can be discovered by walking and looking. Second, to avoid the crowds and subsequent access restrictions that occurred in American Fork Canyon as a result of the explosion of the popularity of sport climbing.
The information about the routes is not and was never “secret.” Each of the developers is willing to share information about his routes, but two do not want the information provided in a widely-disseminated published format.
One need not spend money to get the beta. Darren, the proprietor of MountainWorks in Provo, has stated repeatedly that he will freely share information that he knows with anyone who asks. Call him on the telephone.
The one caveat is that although he disagrees with his friends' desire regarding dissemination, he respects their wishes. Therefore, if you ask him for information about routes from the two developers who do not want their routes published Darren will ask that you don't publish the information.
There is no silver spoon. There are no tears, and there's nothing anyone can say that'll stop me from posting here.
Also what you probably don't know from reading the posts is that this had been a 12 year journey to gather what little information I do have about this canyon. And after talking with 3 of the FA parties, their decision was to not post it but suggested that I post what I have personally climbed. Now what I will not do is post anything that Jeff Pedersen, or BIll Ohran has bolted, and knowing their routes I choose to not climb them either. (They'll say I'm not that good) The fact of the matter is, this is a public canyon, the bolts are all just a few yards from the road, most of the bolts are highly visible, and being such visible bolts attracts the attention of noobs. This canyon looks super easy until you get on the face, and then you get the point that you can't simply hop on a route and do it unless you're a top lever performer. Also the routes are now so old (bolted so long ago) that the FA is forgetting what the name of the wall is, what the climb is, and what the rating is.
Where are we today? Well, I'll tell you. I contact an FA, and say I hear this is your route, and their response goes something like this. "What wall are you talking about" or "Who did you hear this from" or "Yeah, that's mine but I don't remember what it's rated, or what it's called"
We are at a point with this canyon where we are all going to loose the information. People forget, loose interest, go somewhere else, get mad, hold resentments, and just don't care.
We as a community need to start caring about these resources. We as a community need to get together and realize, "If you bolt it, they will come"
Guess what, you bolted it, and we are knocking on your door. Use it or loose it. Book burnings are archaic. Share what you have or chop your bolts.
Here is my take on this entire thread, and Santaquin canyon. I really don't care what anybody thinks of me for saying it either!
The first time I climbed outdoors it was in Santaquin. Living in Santaquin I was so stoked to find all these wonderful routes right in my back yard! Being that I work 40+ hours a week and have four kids, and wanting to climb strictly for recreation! My first thought was OH wow this is awesome there isn't a million people up here I really hope it stays that way! Woo Hoo its like our own little secret climbing paradise!!!!
1st lead climb ever: Prom date (don't know if that the real name or not) nice climb easy for the kids etc. love it but I like everyone else wanted to be better and climb bigger by this time
So a few days later into Mountain works in hopes to find info on some other routes in Santaquin, at this time I hadn't met Darren, I can't remember who was working that day. But he had no info or none he wanted to share, told me to try Rock Canyon. But I was far too busy for that so being adventurous we decided to simply try other routes!
2nd lead climd ever: Santaqueen Prom Queen it looked super easy from the ground and the first 3 bolts were. then I found myself in quite a jam. So I bailed! The next day on my quest for more information I headed back into Mountain works were Christian said "Oh man thats like a 5.10c I was shocked! something that looked simple enough from the ground proved to be way out of my ability range!
So no big deal.
We tried other routes some in rock canyon and some in Santaquin. Then a few months later we are in the Canyon climbing with a couple of our kids when up pulls a SUV. A family jumps out and proceeds to watch us, They had a couple boys one about a 11 and the other maybe 13. They proceed to tell us that they had been climbing a few times with an experienced climber and were ready to branch out and climb themselves. After visiting with them for a few minutes it was apparent they weren't too experienced. So I took them up to our little beloved Prom Date showed them how to get around and top rope it.
Two weeks later guess who was trying to lead climb the very 5.10c that I had tried for my 2nd lead, Yup thats right a 13 year old boy! He made it almost as far as I did, when I passed on the info I had, they too were shocked!
If you bolt it, expect people to climb it, unless of course it is on your own private property!
Keep the information private and all you are doing is putting a great sport at risk!
Imagine if that kid had fallen and cracked his skull open, it would have been one less of climbings future generation!
I would love to see all of Santaquin's climbs posted, and published.
As much as I don't want to share my secret little climbing haven. . .
I used to be fairly active on this site, and post my new routes so reasonable people could have access to that info... but it is because of people like jsnstwrt and angelmarrott and others from the "entitlement generation" that I now keep my new routes to myself and my friends, and the reason I have been deleting route info I previously posted on Mtn project. It's a real shame that what started as a way to share information and route info has mainly become a resource for bashing people we don't even know to feed our own fragile egos.
I agree with Ben. This is really sad. Lets keep the petty name calling and finger pointing off a thread that is supposed to provide information. If people want to share information it is their choice. If not then it means a little more adventuring for those without. We don't deserve others information any more than they deserve ours. The less we assume of others the better.
No name calling here! I was simply trying to share my opinion! As far as the entitlement generation as you would like to call them, at least there is a next generation of climbers out there! Without a future generation of climbers what would happen to the sport itself? I am a bowler, I own a bowling alley, and all too often the old timers are full of criticism towards the next generation of bowlers. This is a sport that is dying, if you look back into the 60's 70's and 80's there was a bowling alley on every corner. Since then the number of alleys that have closed is just sad! The sport of climbing would do the same nose dive, if it weren't for sites like this, guide books, awesome people like Darren and the sharing of information! I do agree that had the kid fallen it would have been his parents fault, but ill educated people make bad decisions all the time. It is not my intention to piss anyone off!