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The Main Wall

Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Black Flies Consume Jim Dunn T,S 
Blurry Eyes T 
Bull Run T 
Fireside Crack T 
Gift, The T 
Ginsu Flake T 
Green Party T 
Green Thumb T 
Greenpeace T 
Hippy Bus T,S 
House Made of Dawn S 
I'm Still Here T 
Moldy Bolts T,S 
Muffin Man, The T 
Remember Me T 
Stewart's Crack T 

The Main Wall  


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Location: 44.0358, -71.3996 View Map  Incorrect?
Page Views: 21,413
Administrators: Jay Knower, M Sprague, lee hansche, Robert Hall, Kristine Hoffman (sitewide)
Submitted By: M Sprague on May 7, 2010
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BETA PHOTO: Green's - The Main Wall, viewed from the top of Ow...

Description 

The Main Wall of Greenís is an impressive band of rock running a little over 1/3 of a mile wide and mostly about 250 feet tall. It offers a bounty of climbing of various styles, with some superb cracks, face climbing, steep slab and flake systems.

The approach from Sawyer Pond Trail brings you under the right side of the cliff. Where you first meet up with the cliff is sort of a featured buttress, a little over 100 feet tall, with potential, but currently only one overgrown route, Eco Challenge, set back in a corner to the right. Further right is a shorter bit of vertical wall with no routes yet.

Moving to the left, as the cliff gets taller, huge blocks have been plucked out from the base of the cliff to create a large ledge with big roofs above. The trail brings you up to where you can scramble up via a little notch to the right side of the ledge, where you will find an old fire ring and some good spots to bivy. There is currently only one route that goes through the roofs, Fireside Crack, that starts just right of the fire ring.

A few words about camping here: It is less necessary since the new way in makes day trips easy, but it is a great bivy spot with the fire ring, protection of the big roofs above, relatively flat spots to lay your pads and a great view. If you use it please leave it as you found it or better. Keep the place nice, and be very careful if you have a fire to keep it under control so no embers fly out and land below. Remember to hang you food well or at least stash it inside your covered pots or the mice will get into it. Also, donít just piss off the ledge. It is protected from rain and would get nasty smelling in no time. Go out further. Please don't leave trash in the fire ring. There is an iron grate stashed behind the leaning slab by the fire. If you use it to cook, when done please return it to its place, out of site. Etiquette suggests replacing any wood you found and used in a neat small stack (dead beach wood is best) so if the next person is stuck in the rain they will have something to get warm with. Needless to say, bury your shit and TP well and away from the cliff. When you leave, aside from the fire ring and a small neat stack of wood, it should not look like people have camped there, and stir the ashes around and make damn sure the coals are 100% out. This shouldn't have to be said, but I have found the place abused and it is very discouraging.

Continuing the cliff tour: The roofs continue on for a couple hundred feet, then you drop down off the ledge and come to where the cliff is a very steep, sheer slab, named by Mike Hartritch as the Porcelain Wall. Above, in steeper second pitch territory are many attractive features, but, so far, the slab has only been cracked by David Powersí Moldy Bolts, a 12a ground up bolted line that follows a thin seam to a ledge. Some knuckleheads starting to chip their way up the slab at another spot but luckily were found out before too much damage occurred. Hopefully this wont reoccur. Please, there is no reason to force a line like that at Greenís. Just up your slab skills. The slabs will go, just at a fairly high level (and high quality).

The next feature you get to is the obvious line of Stewart's Crack, the first pitch of which follows a great handcrack up a left facing corner to a belay ledge. Moving further left, past a couple jumbley, partial height corners, you will come to the wafer thin Ginsu Flake and the classic 2 pitch vertical crack of Greenpeace. The cliff here is about 250 feet tall and steep, with a further 100 foot+ crown of slab above.
Fifty feet past Greenpeace the Great Arch begins, a left leaning steep two pitch overlapping arch that has not yet had an ascent. If you are looking for Black Flies Consume Jim Dunn, you will find it running up the steep slab to the upper end of the arch. Above is a steep two pitch system of dramatic flakes and corners, with another system, The Muffin Man, 50 feet to the left. The theme of steep slab up to another pitch or two of steeper feature climbing continues leftwards with the classic flake of Green Party.

At this point the base of the cliff begins to rise and the cliff gradually shorten. To get around to the left side of the cliff while avoiding some scrambling, before you get to Green Party, find the path (cairn) that heads out from the cliff like you were heading to the West Wing, but immediately take the right split that heads up the hill and hooks back to the cliff. As you re-approach the cliff, on your right you will see a steep two pitch bolted line (open project) and in front of you the bolted slab start of Iím Still Here, leading to a headwall and the hidden pitch above. Just to itís left, is an orange (probably green) right facing corner capped by a roof. The starts of Blurry Eyes and Remember Me are just past the corner.

To get to the top of the left side of the cliff and above the Alcove, continue following the goat path up the narrowing band of trees, with a big slab below you and the diminishing Main Wall above.

Getting There 

See directions under the main Greens Cliff heading.

Climbing Season



Weather station 10.8 miles from here

16 Total Routes

['4 Stars',1],['3 Stars',9],['2 Stars',4],['1 Star',1],['Bomb',0]
['<=5.6',0],['5.7',2],['5.8',1],['5.9',3],['5.10',4],['5.11',2],['5.12',4],['5.13',0],['>=5.14',0],['',0],['<=V1',0],['V2-3',0],['V4-5',0],['V6-7',0],['V8-9',0],['V10-11',0],['V12-13',0],['>=V14',0]

The Classics

Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for The Main Wall:
Ginsu Flake   5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a     Trad, 1 pitch, 60'   
Stewart's Crack   5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a PG13     Trad, 2 pitches, 190'   
Bull Run   5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b     Trad, 1 pitch, 100'   
Blurry Eyes   5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b     Trad, 2 pitches, 160'   
I'm Still Here   5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b     Trad, 2 pitches, 180'   
Green Party   5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c PG13     Trad, 2 pitches, 195'   
Greenpeace   5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a     Trad, 2 pitches, 200'   
Browse More Classics in The Main Wall

Featured Route For The Main Wall
About to pull on ..err to the slab - climber: Todd...

I'm Still Here 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b  NH : Greens Cliff : The Main Wall
Fun varied climbing on 2 pitches, with a great view. The first pitch starts about 25 feet right of a large yellowish brown , right facing corner with a roof. Step off the bent birch tree on to an easy slab and mantle up onto an angling rail to clip the first bolt (spot or stick clip) Continue up and left past 2 more bolts to a thin crux on a headwall (foot sequence) that gets you to the bottom right side of the "mattress" flake. Plug a cam under it and layback up the right side until you can plu...[more]   Browse More Classics in NH

Photos of The Main Wall Slideshow Add Photo
Greens Cliff - Main Wall current routes as of 2013
BETA PHOTO: Greens Cliff - Main Wall current routes as of 2013
These were everywhere along the base of the cliff....
These were everywhere along the base of the cliff....
The Main Wall overhangs lit up by early morning li...
The Main Wall overhangs lit up by early morning li...
Section of the Main Wall at Green's Cliff
Section of the Main Wall at Green's Cliff
Seconding the second pitch of I'm Still Here, a gr...
Seconding the second pitch of I'm Still Here, a gr...
Overhangs on the right hand end of the Main Wall. ...
BETA PHOTO: Overhangs on the right hand end of the Main Wall. ...
Preisendorfer's Topo #2 from the IME New Route Boo...
Preisendorfer's Topo #2 from the IME New Route Boo...
Preisendorfer's Topo #3 from the IME New Route Boo...
Preisendorfer's Topo #3 from the IME New Route Boo...
Arch right of Black Flies. This feature connects i...
BETA PHOTO: Arch right of Black Flies. This feature connects i...
Don't even look at the second pitch hanging corner...
Don't even look at the second pitch hanging corner...
The Main Wall of Greens
BETA PHOTO: The Main Wall of Greens

Comments on The Main Wall Add Comment
Show which comments
By Aaron Rashaw
May 10, 2010
At one point we went into Green's from Livermore Rd./Sawyer trail I think(the top and back side) and walked the Northeast side of the cliff. We could have been on sub cliffs but there were some nice looking bolted lines established as well as some nice aretes and crack that had mega potential.
By M Sprague
Administrator
From: New England
Nov 8, 2010
Sounds like you were over at the Northeastern Crags. I was exploring over there this weekend and managed to find Ward and Paula Smiths route "Premarital Blisters" that has a few bolts. There is indeed a lot of potential over there, but it looks like more cleaning will be needed than the Main Wall. "Blisters" had been reconquered by the forest.
By Jeffrey.LeCours
From: New Hampshire
Mar 12, 2013
Does the Main Wall host 357? Is it listed as "Project" to the left of Black Flies Consume...?
By M Sprague
Administrator
From: New England
Mar 13, 2013
No. 357 is over at the Alcove. The project just left of Black Flies is a thing I bolted. mountainproject.com/v/10715295... Dave powers and I did the first pitch 5.11 slab House Made of Dawn last year. The second pitch hasn't gone yet. It is probably hard 12+, maybe 13. There are a couple moves I haven't really linked cleanly. It goes though. People are welcome to get on it. It is very good and is well protected with a mix of bolts and gear (a few smaller cams and wires). I was hoping to get Jay Conway or Joe Terravecchia out there to see if they can onsite it this year.
By bayard russell jr
From: Madison, NH
Sep 8, 2013
I've gone out to Greens a couple of times in the last couple weeks. The first trip out we did the classics, Stewart's, Green Party and Greenpeace. I thought all were exceptional. A treat to go that far back in the woods and to climb on clean rock!

I have always wanted to head up into those features above Black Flies (since a mid-winter ski trip out there 10 yrs ago!) and seeing it again got me more psyched.

Yesterday Ray Rice, Conner The-Brave-Young-Gun and I gave it whack... and it went!

We free climbed two pitches, onsight and ground-up, after traversing in from A House Called Dawn. We took the obvious line of flakes between the corner systems. Belaying on a ledge at the same height as the top of the left hand corner. Both pitches are 5.11 R. The first is fairly straight forward, but the flake and the protection is a bit disconcerting and the second is harder and just plain serious. Conner did a great job not falling off of it.

Don't have a name yet, and its a little dirty.

In summation, for the time being that makes it a scary, dirty nameless 5.11 two hours from the road.

I wrote a little piece about the day if you're interested:
whitemountainrockandice.com/ca...

Ray also free climbed climbed, ground-up, the first pitch of what appears to be The Endurance. He started on a previously cleaned flake system off the ground, and headed straight up into a thin crack, flakes and eventually some kitty litter granite in a small hanging corner. He lowered off a two bolt anchor below the roof and mumbled something about 5.11 and never wanting to go up there again.

We were all smiles and high fives saying goodbye, as my dog and I headed back home first.
By M Sprague
Administrator
From: New England
Sep 11, 2013
Congratulations, guys! Nice onsite ground up and raw! Damn! only 5.11 on those flakes above Black Flies. I should have gotten myself on them earlier:)) I kept putting it off thinking they would be much harder grade wise. I'm a little jealous.

I wish I knew you guys were over there. I was probably just around the corner to the north.

If Ray thought the Endurance was loose, he should have seen it before I put a few days prying crumbly stuff off it. I put off finishing, demoralized by the rock quality. The Alcove definitely has some sections of crappy, rotten rock mixed in with the great stuff. Any plans to clean up the line on the main cliff? Are you going to keep it R rated? Seems a shame for such a fine line, though the ascent is no doubt impressive.

Great write-up, Bayard.

-maybe I will show you the quick way in (abt an hr and a half). By the way, the second pitch directly above House Made of Dawn is an open project if you guys want to get on it. I don't see myself getting back to it right away and would be happy if somebody is able to climb it. You would probably find it very well protected, bolts and gear.
By john strand
From: southern colo
Sep 11, 2013
Sounds like a 'non race" for Black Flies ! SLAB !!!
By samuel von hammerstien
Sep 12, 2013
seems a shame to rob future generations of adventure too.
By M Sprague
Administrator
From: New England
Sep 12, 2013
Sam, I guess that is a retort to my comment. To each his own, but I don't see how requiring that people risk smashing themselves on a ledge is necessary to have a good adventure. Was the bolted slab and anchor used to get up there "robbing future generations of adventure"?
There are plenty of opportunities to play in traffic, less beautiful lines to climb. I am not saying it should be bolted up every 2 feet. Have you been out there? I have been very close to where they climbed and some of the big flakes there are like crumbly rubber. The line is dramatic and adventurous without added unnecessary risk. It is just my opinion, but I would be sad if it was relegated to obscurity by it. I don't know what their thoughts are for it post FA, so maybe this is all moot. I wasn't sure how to read the "... for the time being that makes it a scary, dirty nameless 5.11" of Bayard's comment.

I also was interested in a line next to it that I had previously scoped on rappel and began trundling the loose stuff. My intention was to put a bolted anchor in an alcove, but I don't know if their route joined it there, making a possible issue. It is probably better that we discuss it in person at the crag rather than let the internet turn it into a conflict, which it isn't
By stephen arsenault
Sep 16, 2013
Bayard,

I really liked your write-up on your Blog. Reminded me of when I was young and bolder. I'm planning on getting out there with a few guys for an overnight weekend, before the season is over.