|The Main Wall
The Main Wall of Greenís is an impressive band of rock running a little over 1/3 of a mile wide and mostly about 250 feet tall. It offers a bounty of climbing of various styles, with some superb cracks, face climbing, steep slab and flake systems.
Note - (People will likely now be coming in the new way from the north, which brings you to the right side of the cliff, by the overhangs. This description has not been updated yet)
The usual approach will drop you off about in the middle of the cliff, with the classic 2 pitch finger and hands crack Greenpeace just to your right. Heading to the left, in about 100 feet, you will get to the start of The Great Arch, a huge left arching overlap that has yet to see an ascent. Below this arch are a couple one pitch routes with more potential. Black Flies Consume Jim Dunn ascends the steep slab to the terminus of the arch, with wild flake, corner and crack terrain above. Continuing to the left, there is more interesting territory; steep one or two pitches of flake systems approached by a pitch of steep slab. At this point, to get to the upper left side of the cliff, look for a cairn signaling to step away from the cliff and follow a trail around and up, or continue along the cliff to get to the base of Green Party. It starts up a short bit of slab to get to the left end of the low tree ledge, then works itís way up to the enticing looking second pitch left leaning stair step flake. Just to the left is a left angling flake that would make a sweet one pitch easy trad route, with a potential hard face climb above. The cliff then gets very blank and steep until you get over to the Blurry Eyes area.
Taking the short trail from the cairn steeply uphill along a short wall(across the hillside will take you to the Alcove)will bring you around and back to the cliff at the cluster of routes near Blurry Eyes and avoid a scramble and eroding thin soil on a slab. As you re-approach the cliff, on your right you will see a steep two pitch bolted line (project) and in front of you the bolted slab start of Iím Still Here, leading to a headwall and the hidden pitch above. Just to itís left, is an orange right facing corner capped by a roof. The starts of Blurry Eyes and Remember Me are just past the corner.
To get to the top of the left side of the cliff and above the Alcove, continue following the goat path up the narrowing band of trees, with a big slab below you and the diminishing Main Wall above.
Going right from the original approach trail, just past Greenpeace, you will see the sweet looking Ginsu Flake, with a few well spaced bolts beside it, then in about 50 feet, past a couple jumbled and vegetated corners, you will see the obvious and delicious looking hand crack in a corner, Stewartís Crack.
Continuing past Stewartís Crack, before you get to the big roofs, is a section of the cliff where the first half is fairly blank steep slab. Above, on steeper rock, are many attractive features, but, so far, the slab has only been cracked by David Powersí Moldy Bolts, a 12a ground up bolted line that follows a thin seam to a ledge. I caught a knucklehead starting to chip holds at the base of the slab. Hopefully he wonít be returning unless he has mended his ways. Please, there is no reason to force a line like that at Greenís. Just up your slab skills. The slabs will go, just at a fairly high level (and high quality).
Continuing on to the right, you will get to a section of huge roofs. Unfortunately, a lot of it is lacking in holds, so, to my eye, it looks like only a few places may offer a way to pierce through. This section is very worthy of more top down exploration. Under the far right side of the roofs , up on a ledge is an old fire ring, a great place to cook and bivy as you are protected by the elements and the view in the morning as the sun comes up is spectacular. If you bivy here, please keep the place nice, and be very careful if you have a fire to keep it under control so no embers fly out and land below. Remember to hang you food well or at least stash it inside your pots or the mice will get into it. Also, donít just piss off the ledge. It is protected from rain and would get nasty smelling in no time. Go out further. There are a handfull of single bivy spots that just require a pad or two that are protected from all but the worst storm. For tenting there is one fairly flat spot for a small tent up on the boulders, otherwise you will have to go out from the cliff to find a bigger flat spot. Try along the way to the Northeastern Crags or maybe up by Blurry Eyes and go no trace.
To get over to the last bit of cliff, and the way over to The North East Crags, drop down about 10 feet directly below the fire ring, then through a little notch and cut left.
See directions under the main Greens Cliff heading.
15 Total Routes
['4 Stars',1],['3 Stars',8],['2 Stars',4],['1 Star',1],['Bomb',0]
Browse More Classics in The Main Wall
Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for The Main Wall:
Bull Run 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b Trad, 1 pitch, 100'
Blurry Eyes 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b Trad, 2 pitches, 160'
Green Party 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
PG13 Trad, 2 pitches, 195'
Greenpeace 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a Trad, 2 pitches, 200'
Featured Route For The Main Wall
I'm Still Here 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b NH
: Greens Cliff
: The Main Wall
Fun varied climbing on 2 pitches, with a great view. The first pitch starts about 25 feet right of a large yellowish brown , right facing corner with a roof. Step off the bent birch tree on to an easy slab and mantle up onto an angling rail to clip the first bolt (spot or stick clip) Continue up and left past 2 more bolts to a thin crux on a headwall (foot sequence) that gets you to the bottom right side of the "mattress" flake. Plug a cam under it and layback up the right side until you can plu...[more] Browse More Classics in NH
Latest Regional Forum Messages
|By Aaron R|
May 10, 2010
At one point we went into Green's from Livermore Rd./Sawyer trail I think(the top and back side) and walked the Northeast side of the cliff. We could have been on sub cliffs but there were some nice looking bolted lines established as well as some nice aretes and crack that had mega potential.
|By M Sprague|
From: New England
Nov 8, 2010
Sounds like you were over at the Northeastern Crags. I was exploring over there this weekend and managed to find Ward and Paula Smiths route "Premarital Blisters" that has a few bolts. There is indeed a lot of potential over there, but it looks like more cleaning will be needed than the Main Wall. "Blisters" had been reconquered by the forest.
|By Jeffrey LeCours|
From: New Hampshire
Mar 12, 2013
Does the Main Wall host 357? Is it listed as "Project" to the left of Black Flies Consume...?
|By M Sprague|
From: New England
Mar 13, 2013
No. 357 is over at the Alcove. The project just left of Black Flies is a thing I bolted. www.mountainproject.com/v/107152953 Dave powers and I did the first pitch 5.11 slab House Made of Dawn last year. The second pitch hasn't gone yet. It is probably hard 12+, maybe 13. There are a couple moves I haven't really linked cleanly. It goes though. People are welcome to get on it. It is very good and is well protected with a mix of bolts and gear (a few smaller cams and wires). I was hoping to get Jay Conway or Joe Terravecchia out there to see if they can onsite it this year.
|By bayard russell jr|
From: Madison, NH
Sep 8, 2013
I've gone out to Greens a couple of times in the last couple weeks. The first trip out we did the classics, Stewart's, Green Party and Greenpeace. I thought all were exceptional. A treat to go that far back in the woods and to climb on clean rock!
I have always wanted to head up into those features above Black Flies (since a mid-winter ski trip out there 10 yrs ago!) and seeing it again got me more psyched.
Yesterday Ray Rice, Conner The-Brave-Young-Gun and I gave it whack... and it went!
We free climbed two pitches, onsight and ground-up, after traversing in from A House Called Dawn. We took the obvious line of flakes between the corner systems. Belaying on a ledge at the same height as the top of the left hand corner. Both pitches are 5.11 R. The first is fairly straight forward, but the flake and the protection is a bit disconcerting and the second is harder and just plain serious. Conner did a great job not falling off of it.
Don't have a name yet, and its a little dirty.
In summation, for the time being that makes it a scary, dirty nameless 5.11 two hours from the road.
I wrote a little piece about the day if you're interested:
Ray also free climbed climbed, ground-up, the first pitch of what appears to be The Endurance. He started on a previously cleaned flake system off the ground, and headed straight up into a thin crack, flakes and eventually some kitty litter granite in a small hanging corner. He lowered off a two bolt anchor below the roof and mumbled something about 5.11 and never wanting to go up there again.
We were all smiles and high fives saying goodbye, as my dog and I headed back home first.
|By M Sprague|
From: New England
Sep 11, 2013
Congratulations, guys! Nice onsite ground up and raw! Damn! only 5.11 on those flakes above Black Flies. I should have gotten myself on them earlier:)) I kept putting it off thinking they would be much harder grade wise. I'm a little jealous.
I wish I knew you guys were over there. I was probably just around the corner to the north.
If Ray thought the Endurance was loose, he should have seen it before I put a few days prying crumbly stuff off it. I put off finishing, demoralized by the rock quality. The Alcove definitely has some sections of crappy, rotten rock mixed in with the great stuff. Any plans to clean up the line on the main cliff? Are you going to keep it R rated? Seems a shame for such a fine line, though the ascent is no doubt impressive.
Great write-up, Bayard.
-maybe I will show you the quick way in (abt an hr and a half). By the way, the second pitch directly above House Made of Dawn is an open project if you guys want to get on it. I don't see myself getting back to it right away and would be happy if somebody is able to climb it. You would probably find it very well protected, bolts and gear.
|By john strand|
From: southern colo
Sep 11, 2013
Sounds like a 'non race" for Black Flies ! SLAB !!!
|By M Sprague|
From: New England
Sep 12, 2013
Sam, I guess that is a retort to my comment. To each his own, but I don't see how requiring that people risk smashing themselves on a ledge is necessary to have a good adventure. Was the bolted slab and anchor used to get up there "robbing future generations of adventure"?
There are plenty of opportunities to play in traffic, less beautiful lines to climb. I am not saying it should be bolted up every 2 feet. Have you been out there? I have been very close to where they climbed and some of the big flakes there are like crumbly rubber. The line is dramatic and adventurous without added unnecessary risk. It is just my opinion, but I would be sad if it was relegated to obscurity by it. I don't know what their thoughts are for it post FA, so maybe this is all moot. I wasn't sure how to read the "... for the time being that makes it a scary, dirty nameless 5.11" of Bayard's comment.
I also was interested in a line next to it that I had previously scoped on rappel and began trundling the loose stuff. My intention was to put a bolted anchor in an alcove, but I don't know if their route joined it there, making a possible issue. It is probably better that we discuss it in person at the crag rather than let the internet turn it into a conflict, which it isn't
|By stephen arsenault|
Sep 16, 2013
I really liked your write-up on your Blog. Reminded me of when I was young and bolder. I'm planning on getting out there with a few guys for an overnight weekend, before the season is over.