BETA PHOTO: The main face, coming out of Moosehead Lake
Exploding straight up from the waters of Moosehead Lake, the the biggest face of Mt. Kineo juts 800' into the air. Secluded due to the long drive and or paddle to approach, the face is rarely climbed, though climber's will find mysterious old rusty pitons, slung trees, and bolts from the unknown climbers of the past.
This has the most sustained vertical climbing of any part of Kineo, and is bathed in sunlight from the morning through mid afternoon. It stretches from the edge of the overhangs to the golf course. The water is extremely deep right to the edge of the climb, making the best approach one by boat, then starting right up. It is also possible to traverse right onto the face from a rough trail that leads from the edge of the golf course.
The rock can be tough to find placements for pro in, but when it's solid it's hard and bomber. There is a lot of loose chossy rock. Climbing teams should take care to make sure climber's don't climb above belayers, and helmets are a must.
Driving from the mainland you can drive to the golf course, but it's quicker to put in a boat at Rockwood and zip over to the main face.
Weather station 8.1 miles from here
3 Total Routes
['4 Stars',0],['3 Stars',2],['2 Stars',0],['1 Star',1],['Bomb',0]
Featured Route For The Main Face
Claw of the Toxic Walrus 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
: Mt Kineo
: The Main Face
A fun full day outing up the main face, beware of loose rock and blocks. Kineo is falling apart and we kicked off many large blocks between the size of a microwave and a coffee table.The climb's a blast, with mostly easy moves and a few short cruxy section. To begin either follow the trail out to the edge of the blocky arete from the golf course, or go directly to the edge of the arete by canoe.Pitch 1 (5.4) - Climb up blocks onto the edge of the arete, through falling water. Right below the ser...[more] Browse More Classics in ME
By Jonathan Steitzer
From: midcoast, maine
Dec 19, 2014
Hey - anyone who's climbed this in the past, what's the story? Before we climbed this I called around to every guide outfit in the state and besides the winter ascents of Maine Line no-one knew anything about any rock climbing that had occured, but we found plenty of old gear and a mysterious shiny bolt line. Anyone have any info or stories here?