Exploding straight up from the waters of Moosehead Lake, the the biggest face of Mt. Kineo juts 800' into the air. Secluded due to the long drive and or paddle to approach, the face is rarely climbed, though climber's will find mysterious old rusty pitons, slung trees, and bolts from the unknown climbers of the past.
Driving from the mainland you can drive to the golf course, but it's quicker to put in a boat at Rockwood and zip over to the main face.
Browse More Classics in The Main Face
Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for The Main Face:
Claw of the Toxic Walrus 5.8 PG13 Trad, Alpine, 7 pitches, 800 feet, Grade IV
Trappah's Line 5.10a Trad, Alpine, 7 pitches, 800 feet, Grade IV
Featured Route For The Main Face
Claw of the Toxic Walrus 5.8 PG13 ME : Mt Kineo : The Main Face
A fun full day outing up the main face, beware of loose rock and blocks. Definitely have the belayer stay well to the side of the fall zone.The climb's a blast, with mostly easy moves and a few short cruxy section. To begin either follow the trail out to the edge of the blocky arete from the golf course, or go directly to the edge of the arete by canoe.Pitch 1 (5.4) - Climb up blocks onto the edge of the arete, through falling water. Right below the series of vertical bolts traverse right around...[more] Browse More Classics in ME