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Beak, The 
Dog Dish Boulders 
Mr Magoo Boulder 
Mrs Magoo Boulder 


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Location: 37.2283, -122.0957 View Map  Incorrect?
Page Views: 22,977
Administrators: Aron Quiter, M.Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer, Justin Johnsen, Kristine Hoffman (sitewide)
Submitted By: Aron Quiter on Feb 3, 2003


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Jacob Shull sending Hueco Wall


Bouldering bouldering bouldering. This is what Castle rock is "famous" for anyways right? Grab and hang onto as many sandstone holds, slopers, jugs, buckets, and little things as you can!

The Magoos are classic bouldering, offering a variety of problems from 5.1 to Vreally really hard. You will see people working on problems in all ranges as well on a weekend, and you may be the only person there on a weekday.

There are no access issues to climb in Castle Rock, unless you don't like people coming to the area that are not climbers watching you in amazement.

Some routes are in the sun, but most are usually in the shade.

Getting There 

Approach time: 5 - 15 minutes.

From the main Castle Rock parking lot, head up to Castle Rock proper. This involves taking the paths to the left out of the parking lot, which are all marked as going to Castle Rock.

Walk up the path hanging a right (uphill) at the junction with the service road, and just short of Castle Rock itself you will see a group of boulders on your left 50 yards from the rock.

Climbing Season

Weather station 4.5 miles from here

29 Total Routes

['4 Stars',0],['3 Stars',8],['2 Stars',20],['1 Star',1],['Bomb',0]

The Classics

Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for Magoos:
Your'e Getting Warm   V0 4     Boulder   Mr Magoo Boulder
The Warm Up   V1 5     Boulder, 12'   Dog Dish Boulders
Unnamed   V1 5     Boulder   Mr Magoo Boulder
Up and Over   V1 5     Boulder   Mr Magoo Boulder
Magoo Face   V2 5+     Boulder, 15'   Mr Magoo Boulder
Mrs. Magoo   V2 5+     Boulder, 10'   Mrs Magoo Boulder
Mr Magoo   V2 5+     Boulder, 10'   Mr Magoo Boulder
The Beak Traverse   V2 5+     Boulder, 10'   The Beak
The Swim   V3 6A     Boulder, 8'   Mrs Magoo Boulder
Overhanging Lieback   V3 6A     Boulder, 1 pitch, 10'   Mr Magoo Boulder
Mrs. Magoo Traverse   V3 6A     Boulder   Mrs Magoo Boulder
The Slope   V4- 6B     Boulder, 12'   Dog Dish Boulders
Dog Dish Traverse   V5 6C     Boulder, 10'   Dog Dish Boulders
Hueco Slap   V5 6C     Boulder, 12'   Dog Dish Boulders
Bates Problem   V6 7A     Boulder   Mr Magoo Boulder
Hueco Wall   V6 7A     Boulder, 12'   Dog Dish Boulders
Bates Eliminate   V7-8 7B     Boulder, 10'   Mr Magoo Boulder
Browse More Classics in Magoos

Featured Route For Magoos
Teri kicking back

Overhanging Lieback V3 6A  CA : San Francisco Bay Area : ... : Mr Magoo Boulder
On the North (maintence road) side of the northmost Magoo, there is a rightward overhanging sloper lieback. This route requires 8 feet of overhung sustained movements that are quite taxing.You can't miss this route from the road, as it's probably the first thing that you will notice when looking at the Magoos if you're headed either there or to Castle Rock and you look left.This is route 2 on Avery's pretty picture....[more]   Browse More Classics in CA

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