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The Magoos
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Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Bates Eliminate 
Bates Problem 
Dog Dish Traverse 
Edge, The 
Hueco Slap 
Hueco Wall 
Kauk Roof 
Mr Magoo 
Northern Roof 
Overhanging Lieback 
Swim, The 
Unnamed 
Up and Over 
Warm-Up 
Your'e Getting Warm 
Unsorted Routes:

The Magoos 


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Lat, Long: 37.2283, -122.096 Map
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Administrators: Aron Quiter, M.Morley, Sam Vanderhyden, Tom Erickson
Submitted By: Aron Quiter on Feb 3, 2003

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Description 

Bouldering bouldering bouldering. This is what Castle rock is "famous" for anyways right? Grab and hang onto as many sandstone holds, slopers, jugs, buckets, and little things as you can!

The Magoos are classic bouldering, offering a variety of problems from 5.1 to Vreally really hard. You will see people working on problems in all ranges as well on a weekend, and you may be the only person there on a weekday.

There are no access issues to climb in Castle Rock, unless you don't like people coming to the area that are not climbers watching you in amazement.

Some routes are in the sun, but most are usually in the shade.


Getting There 

Approach time: 5 - 15 minutes.

From the main Castle Rock parking lot, head up to Castle Rock proper. This involves taking the paths to the left out of the parking lot, which are all marked as going to Castle Rock.

Walk up the path hanging a right (uphill) at the junction with the service road, and just short of Castle Rock itself you will see a group of boulders on your left 50 yards from the rock.


The Classics

Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for The Magoos:
Your'e Getting Warm   V0     Boulder   
Unnamed   V1     Boulder   
The Edge   V2     Boulder   
Mr Magoo   V2     Trad, Boulder, 10 feet   
The Swim   V3     Boulder, 8 feet   
Overhanging Lieback   V3     Boulder, 1 pitch, 10 feet   
Hueco Slap   V5     Boulder, 12 feet   
Hueco Wall   V6     Boulder, 12 feet   
Bates Problem   V6     Boulder   
Bates Eliminate   V7-8     Boulder, 10 feet   
Dog Dish Traverse   V?     Boulder, 10 feet   
Browse More Classics in The Magoos

Featured Route For The Magoos
Mike Hernandez firing the Bates' Eliminate in 1981.

Bates Eliminate V7-8  CA : SF Bay Area : ... : The Magoos
Ascend the face to the left of Mr. Magoo on the Magoo Rock via two incredible small finger holds. The ascent can be made harder via an sit down start (sds) first down by Chris Scharma five years ago that is rated V10....[more]   Browse More Classics in CA