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The Magician is the first and largest formation on the ridge. On it's top is the historic Forest Service fire lookout tower which is still in use today. A system of rickety stairs ascends the west face of the formation to access the tower. On Sundays, Marge, and her black cat Spooky, the usual occupants of the tower during the summer months, will often bake cookies for climbers willing to pay her a visit.
Approach routes on the west face and the long ones that begin at the foot of the formation by heading down a trail that branches right (south) just beyond the low point before ascending up to the foot of the stairs. Follow faded red bows that are tied to the foliage (it's worth it to keep your eyes peeled for these.
2 Total Routes
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Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for The Magician:
Poof 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b R Trad, 4 pitches
Magic Dragon 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R Trad, 10 pitches
Featured Route For The Magician
Poof 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b R CA : Southern Sierra : ... : The Magician
A great introduction to the Needles--the airiness, exposure, and runouts typical to the area at an accessible grade. Don't believe the guidebook--3 pitches will not get you to the top.P1 (5.6): Climb multiple, broken cracks in a shallow, left-facing corner. Belay from a ledge with a fir tree. [Take a few minutes to TR "Frustration with the Redhead" (5.11) directly below the tree.]P2 (5.7+): Follow a short crack and flakes past a single bolt which is 30 feet out. Continue climbing the moderat...[more] Browse More Classics in CA
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