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The Magic Crack
5.9 YDS 5c French 17 Ewbanks VI UIAA 17 ZA HVS 5a British
Avg: 4 from 2 votes
Type: | Trad, Alpine, 330 ft (100 m), 3 pitches |
FA: | Strange, Ross, Wyness & Dinwoodie May 1981 |
Page Views: | 1,158 total · 10/month |
Shared By: | Andy Weinmann on Jun 3, 2014 |
Admins: | Chris Owen, Euan Cameron |
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Description
One of the best 5.9 (HVS) climbs in the Cairngorms. This route also sees winter ascents as evidenced by the crampon scratches on the rock.
P1: Climb the corner up to a broad rib and then up to a belay on a comfortable platform. If you go up the face you end up making a traverse right to reach this platform.
P2: Go up and right from the platform and gain a crack system that leads up into some left-facing corners with a good handcrack. Climb the corners to a fixed belay. Further out right is a small ledge with two old, rusty fixed pins...don't belay there.
P3: Move right to the small ledge the around the corner further right to a beautiful finger crack. Head up the crack and then the small roof/overlap and finish up the broken face above.
P1: Climb the corner up to a broad rib and then up to a belay on a comfortable platform. If you go up the face you end up making a traverse right to reach this platform.
P2: Go up and right from the platform and gain a crack system that leads up into some left-facing corners with a good handcrack. Climb the corners to a fixed belay. Further out right is a small ledge with two old, rusty fixed pins...don't belay there.
P3: Move right to the small ledge the around the corner further right to a beautiful finger crack. Head up the crack and then the small roof/overlap and finish up the broken face above.
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