The Mad Scientist 5.8+
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| Type: | Sport, 1 pitch, 100 feet |
| Consensus: | 5.8- [details] |
| FA: | Brian Shelton and Stewart Green, September 2004 |
| Submitted By: | Cory P on Oct 2, 2006 |
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BETA PHOTO: Mad Scientist.
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Description This is a great, fun route just to the right of Pikes Peak. There is a long run out to the first bolt, and be prepared to smear, but it is a great climb. The crux comes on a steep slab near the 5th-6th bolt area.
Protection 6 bolts to a 2 bolt anchor.
BETA PHOTO: The crux section.
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Setting up the rap for The Mad Scientist. One of m...
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At the anchors.
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The Mad Scientist indeed....
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BETA PHOTO: At the anchors on Mad Scientist.
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Tim Whalen on the runout slab to the first bolt.
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Tim starting the crux section.
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BETA PHOTO: A look up the route.
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| Comments on The Mad Scientist |
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By Heath
From: Colorado Springs, CO
Jun 17, 2008
| DO NOT TRUST the 4th bolt on this route. It spins completely around. I did not have any tools, so I was not able to tighten it :(
Heath |
By Tom Hanson
Jun 17, 2008
| Heath, is the bolt itself spinning, or just the hanger?
A spinning bolt requires tightening or replacement, while a spinning hanger is awkward to clip, but represents no decrease in strength. |
By Phil Lauffen
From: Louyuppie
Jun 20, 2008
| I was there two days ago. The nut on the hanger was loose and I tightened it with my hand, but I didn't have a wrench. |
By Joey Jimenez
From: Colorado Springs
Aug 13, 2008
| My wife and I did some laps on this route yesterday and didn't notice any problems with the bolts or hangers. I realize the previous post was nearly a month and half ago - I will assume it has been fixed. Thanks to whoever put in the work. |
By Andrew Gram
Administrator
From: Salt Lake City, UT
Jan 18, 2009
| Contrived. The crack to the right of the crux is very nice and easier. Would have been better as a mixed bolts and gear route. |
By Bill Olszewski
From: Colorado Springs, CO
May 3, 2010
rating: 5.7
| Definitely not 5.8 if you climb the crack to the right, which is hard to avoid, the holds just take you that way. Fun climb nevertheless! |
By Stewart M. Green
Jun 3, 2010
| I agree. This route is no more than 5.7 now, especially if you go right like most folks. The direct line is borderline 5.8. |
By Mike Smyth
From: Spartanburg, SC
Jun 30, 2011
rating: 5.7
| Was climbing "The Mad Scientist" 2 days ago and noticed the top anchors seem a bit wiggly and loose. Didn't have a wrench or epoxy with me. Be careful out there. |
By Mike Smyth
From: Spartanburg, SC
Jul 19, 2011
rating: 5.7
| I called Front Range last week and was informed that someone would be out there to dress it up. Apparently they have a contract to maintain the routes. Thank you Front Range for helping to keep us safe out there. |
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