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The Mad Scientist 

YDS: 5.8+ French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 100'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c [details]
FA: Brian Shelton and Stewart Green, September 2004
Page Views: 2,502
Submitted By: Cory P on Oct 2, 2006

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (58)
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"Sprint Point" - definition, leading sans hands - ...

Description 

This is a great, fun route just to the right of Pikes Peak. There is a long run out to the first bolt, and be prepared to smear, but it is a great climb. The crux comes on a steep slab near the 5th-6th bolt area.

Protection 

6 bolts to a 2 bolt anchor.


Photos of The Mad Scientist Slideshow Add Photo
Mad Scientist.
BETA PHOTO: Mad Scientist.
The crux section.
BETA PHOTO: The crux section.
A look up the route.
BETA PHOTO: A look up the route.
Setting up the rap for The Mad Scientist. One of my favorite routes in RRCOS.
Setting up the rap for The Mad Scientist. One of m...
The no hands lead climb challenge.
The no hands lead climb challenge.
At the anchors.
At the anchors.
Tim starting the crux section.
Tim starting the crux section.
The Mad Scientist indeed....
The Mad Scientist indeed....
Starting the "Sprint Point". No hands allowed to the first bolt.
Starting the "Sprint Point". No hands allowed to t...
At the anchors on Mad Scientist.
BETA PHOTO: At the anchors on Mad Scientist.
Tim Whalen on the runout slab to the first bolt.
Tim Whalen on the runout slab to the first bolt.
Boom, got it. Onsight "Sprint Point" to the first bolt. Who needs a stick clip, who needs hands?
Boom, got it. Onsight "Sprint Point" to the first ...

Comments on The Mad Scientist Add Comment
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Comments displayed oldest to newestSkip Ahead to the Most Recent Dated Jul 19, 2011
By Heath
From: Colorado Springs, CO
Jun 17, 2008

DO NOT TRUST the 4th bolt on this route. It spins completely around. I did not have any tools, so I was not able to tighten it :(

Heath
By Tom Hanson
Jun 17, 2008

Heath, is the bolt itself spinning, or just the hanger?
A spinning bolt requires tightening or replacement, while a spinning hanger is awkward to clip, but represents no decrease in strength.
By Phil Lauffen
From: The Bubble
Jun 20, 2008

I was there two days ago. The nut on the hanger was loose and I tightened it with my hand, but I didn't have a wrench.
By Joey Jimenez
From: Colorado Springs
Aug 13, 2008

My wife and I did some laps on this route yesterday and didn't notice any problems with the bolts or hangers. I realize the previous post was nearly a month and half ago - I will assume it has been fixed. Thanks to whoever put in the work.
By Andrew Gram
Administrator
From: Salt Lake City, UT
Jan 18, 2009

Contrived. The crack to the right of the crux is very nice and easier. Would have been better as a mixed bolts and gear route.
By Bill Olszewski
From: Colorado Springs, CO
May 3, 2010
rating: 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b

Definitely not 5.8 if you climb the crack to the right, which is hard to avoid, the holds just take you that way. Fun climb nevertheless!
By Stewart M. Green
Jun 3, 2010

I agree. This route is no more than 5.7 now, especially if you go right like most folks. The direct line is borderline 5.8.
By Mike Smyth
From: Spartanburg, SC
Jun 30, 2011
rating: 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b

Was climbing "The Mad Scientist" 2 days ago and noticed the top anchors seem a bit wiggly and loose. Didn't have a wrench or epoxy with me. Be careful out there.
By Mike Smyth
From: Spartanburg, SC
Jul 19, 2011
rating: 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b

I called Front Range last week and was informed that someone would be out there to dress it up. Apparently they have a contract to maintain the routes. Thank you Front Range for helping to keep us safe out there.