Type: | Trad, Aid, 100 ft (30 m) |
FA: | Sam Lightner Jr. |
Page Views: | 990 total · 5/month |
Shared By: | Sam Lightner, Jr. on Jun 18, 2009 |
Admins: | slim, Andrew Gram, Nathan Fisher, Perin Blanchard, GRK, D C |
Your To-Do List:
Add To-Do ·
Use onX Backcountry to explore the terrain in 3D, view recent satellite imagery, and more. Now available in onX Backcountry Mobile apps! For more information see this post.
Access Issue: Closures and Restrictions
Details
Check Raptor closure status and details at: nps.gov/arch/planyourvisit/…
Read about Anchor Replacement and Restrictions mountainproject.com/v/utah/… in Arches National Park
Read about Anchor Replacement and Restrictions mountainproject.com/v/utah/… in Arches National Park
Access Issue: RAIN, WET ROCK and RAPTOR CLOSURES: The sandstone around Moab is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Also please ask and be aware of Raptor Closures in areas such as CAT WALL and RESERVOIR WALL in Indian Creek
Details
WET ROCK: Holds rip off and climbs have been and will continue to be permanently damaged due to climbers not respecting this phenomenon. After a heavy storm the rock will remain wet, sometimes for several days. PLEASE DO NOT CLIMB IN MOAB during or after rain.
RAPTOR CLOSURES: please be aware of seasonal raptor closures. They occur annually in the spring.
RAPTOR CLOSURES: please be aware of seasonal raptor closures. They occur annually in the spring.
Description
This is sort-of a new route. It shares the upper thrid with the original line, but the majority of the route is new.
The line starts 30 feet right of the original route. I was a bit nervous about the stability of the first two placements, so I looked for an alternative to reach the upper crack. There is a cleft to a crack 30 feet right that allowed for funky free climbing to reach the upper third of the original route.
The start is a bit scary... loose oppositional climbing for about 20 feet before you get a good piece. More wierdness, then a wide section with a bombay for a crux. It may only be 5.9.... I was alone and it felt 5.10 to me. Continue on then traverse left to the original line and begin aiding up the rotting crack.
The crack goes clean, but its got some very soft, grainy spots that could easily break up under force. I think its solid C2.
The line starts 30 feet right of the original route. I was a bit nervous about the stability of the first two placements, so I looked for an alternative to reach the upper crack. There is a cleft to a crack 30 feet right that allowed for funky free climbing to reach the upper third of the original route.
The start is a bit scary... loose oppositional climbing for about 20 feet before you get a good piece. More wierdness, then a wide section with a bombay for a crux. It may only be 5.9.... I was alone and it felt 5.10 to me. Continue on then traverse left to the original line and begin aiding up the rotting crack.
The crack goes clean, but its got some very soft, grainy spots that could easily break up under force. I think its solid C2.
Photos
- No Photos -
0 Comments