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Routes in North Twin Sister
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Balcony Route, The T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b PG13 |
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Lowe Route, The T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a |
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Northeast Shoulder T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Safecracker S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Straight Edge T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c R |
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| Type: | Trad, 150 ft (45 m) |
| FA: | Greg Lowe et al. - 1964 |
| Page Views: | 1,916 total · 16/month |
| Shared By: | Josh Janes on Sep 9, 2014 |
| Admins: | GRK, Mike Engle, Eric Bluemn |
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Access Issue: (1) Weather Wall, Yellow Wall, & all the crags north of Twin Sisters are CLOSED. (2) No trash cans. (3) Highlining temporary ban in place for CIRO and CRSP
Details
(1) The area, crags, and routes just north of the Twin Sisters are on private land and the landowner recently posted no trespassing notices at the gated road/trail to the area. Any access of these areas and routes is trespassing. The area was closed by the landowner due to trespassing, illegal camping, fires & trash, and disregard of owner's privacy.
Please be respectful of the land owner's wishes and do not climb or hike here until further notice. This includes White Lightning, Skinner Roof, Weather Wall, Yellow Wall, Larry's Annihilation, Needle Rock, Mississippi Fred's, and Secret Tom's. Park officials and CRAG are working to regain access to this valuable climbing resource. Be patient and check back for updates.
(2) No trash cans anywhere in City of Rocks: urlzs.com/c4eZH
(3) HIGHLINING IS PROHIBITED
By the authority of the park manager, Highlining at City of Rocks National Reserve and Castle Rocks State Park is temporarily prohibited as of August 28, 2019.
The park(s) is reviewing highlining activities. Here are Google Drive links to the closure and the updated Code of Regulations for CIRO. drive.google.com/open?id=1y… and drive.google.com/open?id=1Y…
Please be respectful of the land owner's wishes and do not climb or hike here until further notice. This includes White Lightning, Skinner Roof, Weather Wall, Yellow Wall, Larry's Annihilation, Needle Rock, Mississippi Fred's, and Secret Tom's. Park officials and CRAG are working to regain access to this valuable climbing resource. Be patient and check back for updates.
(2) No trash cans anywhere in City of Rocks: urlzs.com/c4eZH
(3) HIGHLINING IS PROHIBITED
By the authority of the park manager, Highlining at City of Rocks National Reserve and Castle Rocks State Park is temporarily prohibited as of August 28, 2019.
The park(s) is reviewing highlining activities. Here are Google Drive links to the closure and the updated Code of Regulations for CIRO. drive.google.com/open?id=1y… and drive.google.com/open?id=1Y…
Access Issue: The Twin Sisters formations are off-limits to climbing.
Details
The Twin Sisters formations are off-limits to climbing: The Idaho Historical Society has deemed that climbing interferes with the "Historical Viewshed" of the California Trail Corridor and has lobbied successfully with the Idaho State Parks to make climbing illegal on the Twin Sisters. The Access Fund has unsuccessfully negotiated restoration of climbing on the Sisters.
Bolts have been removed as a result of this decision (including descent anchors). Those that remain, if any, are undoubtedly outdated and dangerous.
Bolts have been removed as a result of this decision (including descent anchors). Those that remain, if any, are undoubtedly outdated and dangerous.
Description
Note: This description is for the historical record only. All information contained within is likely outdated and inaccurate. Many, if not all, bolts have been removed from the Twin Sisters formations and climbing on them is illegal. Do not attempt to climb these routes for your own safety and compliance with the law!
The Lowe Route is a fun pitch of crack climbing with a great roof crux. Climb a crack at the far left end of the southeast face. A second crack appears just below the roof, but continue up the righthand crack at 5.9 (the splitter through the roof is somewhat contrived 5.10). A brief section of burliness gives way to more enjoyable climbing up the twin cracks. A second pitch supposedly continues onto the south shoulder of North Twin Sister, but it would be very easy to traverse straight right on a large dike/ledge system to the anchors atop Straight Edge if they still existed. Rap from here with a 70m rope.
The Lowe Route is a fun pitch of crack climbing with a great roof crux. Climb a crack at the far left end of the southeast face. A second crack appears just below the roof, but continue up the righthand crack at 5.9 (the splitter through the roof is somewhat contrived 5.10). A brief section of burliness gives way to more enjoyable climbing up the twin cracks. A second pitch supposedly continues onto the south shoulder of North Twin Sister, but it would be very easy to traverse straight right on a large dike/ledge system to the anchors atop Straight Edge if they still existed. Rap from here with a 70m rope.
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