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GPS: 42.46632, -106.82856
Google Map · Climbing Area Map
Page Views: 14,118 total · 65/month
Shared By: richard magill on May 21, 2006 · Updates
Admins: Mike Snyder, Taylor Spiegelberg, Jake Dickerson

Description Suggest change

Nice little sport climbing area with short routes and excellent stone.

If you are climbing here I suppose one might argue that you are missing out on the real point of Fremont - there are no hanging belays, no sketchy gear, no multipitch epics, none of that.

This is just fun sport climbing with a 2-minute approach. Routes range in difficulty from 5.9 to 5.11+.

The crag faces southeast and gets quite a bit of sun, although there is some shade in the afternoon.

Getting There Suggest change

The old parking is now blocked by boulders and has “no parking” signs. Park at the Cardwell Fishing access lot, which is west of the old parking at the Y in the road. There is an outhouse here and plenty of spots, mostly occupied by fisherman. Walk from here a half mile up the road to the trail, then along the trail to the crag.
Please do not park in the sandy spot on the side of the road just west of the start of the trail, nor any other spots along this stretch of road. This stretch of road is clearly signed as private no parking.

This crag is on land owned by Pathfinder Ranch LLC. So far they have been tolerant of climbing in the area, so please be courteous. Pathfinder Ranch owns the access roads to several crags in Fremont Canyon, so it is imperative that climbers maintain a positive relationship and a low profile. 

You can see the crag a couple hundred yards off the road. The crag is about 45 feet tall - a faint trail leads up to it.

10 Total Climbs

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Location: The Love Shack Change
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Classic Climbing Routes at The Love Shack

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
 5
Haagen Daz Dihedral
Trad
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
 20
Chunky Monkey
Sport
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
 21
Slippery Avocado
Sport
5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
 7
Superchunk
Sport
5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
 18
The Stinger
Sport
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
Haagen Daz Dihedral
 5
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Trad
Chunky Monkey
 20
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Sport
Slippery Avocado
 21
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Sport
Superchunk
 7
5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a Sport
The Stinger
 18
5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a Sport
More Classic Climbs in The Love Shack »

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