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Lower Mother's Buttress
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The Lord of Wisdom 

YDS: 5.10+ French: 6b+ Ewbanks: 21 UIAA: VII+ British: E3 5b

Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 60'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10+ French: 6b+ Ewbanks: 21 UIAA: VII+ British: E3 5b [details]
FA: KC Baum and Don Anderson, 10/22/1987
Page Views: 933
Submitted By: Matthew Seymour on Apr 22, 2007
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Approaching the crux.


Layback the start until you can stand and gain a nice hand/finger crack. Continue up with great jams and a few face holds to a small alcove with a nice rest just below a bulge. Pull the bulge with badly flared hand jams (crux) and gain the top ledge.

There are bolts on the top of the ledge not visible from below. Some sort of edge protection would be helpful for your anchor.


This is located to the right of where the trail meets the wall. Head around the corner past a deep chimney to a crack with an offwidth crack just to its right.


Cams from small to hands, and nuts.

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By S. Stember
From: St. Paul, MN
Oct 7, 2007
rating: 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ E3 5b

There are two starts to this route. The guidebook tells you to go up the offwidth on the right and traverse into the finger/handcrack. This move is weird and challenging.

By Dustin B
From: Steamboat
Sep 4, 2009

Nice and stout, a fine short climb.

By rob pizem
Aug 17, 2011

Makes me wonder why there are tons of climbers in Unaweep every weekend. This route has it all. Liebacking, fingers, a small roof, and hand jams!