What an excellent problem! Start on left side of lip on the mustache boulder right by the little boulder in front of it. Traverse across the lip utilizing any slopers, crimps, and heel hooks that you can find along the way. The crux is trying to scoot your heel along with you while moving on the 2nd and 3rd moves. When you are almost to the end of the traverse, and about to hit your head on the large wall behind you, there will be a series of small crimps and a good edge type thing. Go straight up from here to a ledge, and then use either the arete or one of the other ledges to get up on the boulder. Don't hit your back/head on the large wall behind you. And I shouldn't have to say it, but the large wall is off. I will admit it is kind of awkward getting up in this small space, but when you do, you will feel very happy about your send. The problem is over when you are standing up on the ledges that you used to pull yourself up.
Thanks to Ray Bierbaum for seeing that the line was possible!
The lower lip on The Mustache Boulder.
A few pads, and spotter.
BETA PHOTO: See the holds?
BETA PHOTO: The Lorax
Zach on The Lorax
Ray working the crux
Mar 14, 2012
Cool. Also, on this boulder, the direct finish to Flavor Savor is yet to be done.
|By Zach Mathe|
Mar 14, 2012
We did not try Flavor Savor yet, but it looks pretty sweet! I will check it out next week when I am there.
From: Madison, WI
Mar 15, 2012
Nice work. I never thought to try the lip traverse.