The Lorax 5.13b
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| Type: | Sport, 1 pitch, 90 feet |
| Consensus: | 5.13b [details] |
| FA: | Jim Redo |
| Submitted By: | Jim Redo on Jan 29, 2003 |
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Seasonal Raptor Closure In Effect MORE INFO >>>
The seasonal raptor closure is in effect February 1, 2013 through July 31, 2013 at Blob Rock and Bitty Buttress.
Each year, Boulder Canyon raptor nesting area closures are in effect starting February 1st at Eagle Rock, Security Risk, Blob Rock, and Bitty Buttress. However, the area is monitored and closures are periodically lifted early (due to no active nest, nest site failure, or early fledging). This monitoring program is a partnership with the Forest Service Boulder Ranger District, Boulder Climbing Community, and Audubon Society. Check back periodically during times of closure for updates.
This information is a public crowdsourcing effort between the Access Fund,
and Mountain Project.
You should confirm closures, restrictions, and/or related dates.
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Keeping climbing areas open and conserving the climbing environment
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Description This route is to the right of The Buzz (5.12d) in the amphitheatre right of the actual Bitty Buttress route. Scramble up to a ledge below a bolt about ten feet above you and belay. Climb up and clip the first bolt and gain a semi-exposed ledge. Clip the second bolt, and lay down and unclip the first bolt to reduce rope drag. The meat of the climb is three boulder problems separated by rests with the rests getting worse after each boulder problem. Probably, the most continuously steep route in the canyon and maybe a stiff 13b at that.
Protection 10 bolts. Reach down and unclip the first bolt after you clip the second to reduce rope drag.
By Joe Collins
Jun 9, 2006
| What's the story with the cement/glue "bridge" feature in the crack between bolts 3 and 4 (2nd and 3rd off the ledge) at the first crux? I definitely don't see any purpose for it except to improve a horrendously bad finger lock. |
By Peter Beal
From: Boulder Colorado
Nov 6, 2006
| The glue should go. It's a deliberately created hold that doesn't appear to be necessary. Until it's cleaned up, it's an AO route. |
By Joe Collins
Nov 23, 2010
| I ran into a well-known local climber the other day in the Blob area who claimed that he had just removed the glue feature from the starting crack/seam. My guess is that it is now a bit harder. |
By Peter Beal
From: Boulder Colorado
Nov 25, 2010
| Good to hear. |
By Cedar Wright
Nov 27, 2012
rating: 5.13b
| This is one of the best sport climbs in Boulder Canyon that I have done; super steep sustained and challenging, not to mention impressive looking. The start free of the "glue bridge" entails one of the shittiest finger locks you should ever hope to grab, the middle features a cryptic hand jam to sloper sequence, and the finish is climatic, with a wild reach to the lip of the roof like feature that the Lorax ascends. The 12a to the left makes a good warm up and is classic in it's own right. As an added bonus, you get to commune with the mountain pigeons that live in the chimney! |
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