|Type:||Trad, 3 pitches, 300', Grade III|
|Consensus:||YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c [details]|
|Season:||Fall thru Spring|
|Submitted By:||Mike on May 16, 2006|
|PLACING BOLTS IS ILLEGAL IN THE SUPERSTITION WILDERNESS! MORE INFO >>>|
|Comments on The Long Lead||Add Comment|
|Show which comments —
From: Santa Monica, Ca
Feb 12, 2012
|This was an interesting climb. The first pitch was a little awkward. The second pitch has some wildly fun stemming in the dihedral but I had difficulty protecting it - a little heady. You then traverse up to the belay on two rusty bolts. The next pitch is a fun chimney where you belay on top of the chock stone (the webbing on the chockstone below the belay is old and not safe to clip). Belay on top of the chockstone above with 2 inch gear. Final pitch involves going up and left over the boulder above (protects well). Go up and left to a hole to finish or you may be able to go right and straight up a fun but unprotectable looking chimney. To find the anchors after the last pitch, climb up and over a bulge and traverse/downclimb (use a belay) north and once you cross to another rock go up and west 5 feet to the top of the formation and 2 shiny rap bolts on the west side. Hike out south. There was one additional rappell that we had to re-rig with a coordalete. Long approach, poor rock quality, you can cheat the squeeze chimneys with face holds - but overall it was fun! One star - maybe|
By Tim Heid
From: Scottsdale, AZ
Apr 7, 2012
rating: 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Classic! Pitch 1 is good, but the 2nd pitch is a gem. The stemming is stellar and pulling around the roof is fun as well. Pitch 3 is okay, next time I would do the R last pitch of Stroke It Gently instead.
Beta Alert:(To add to the description if you want a bit more detail)
Pitch 1: 5.7 90' A bit awkward to get started. Stem, offwidth, and chimney on mostly good, but semi spicy gear. Angle eases off after 50' and crack widens, I belayed 40' after this w/ a C4 .5, 2, 3 on a nice ledge.
Pitch 2: 5.8 130' Don't go straight up into the overhanging OW. instead, step immediately right onto face for 15' into a beautiful looking 70' dihedral. Lots of thin cams and small nuts make the gear bomber. I wished I had a purple and green C3, for this section but it's fine without. After that climb out right from a big roof and continue on easier face climbing to a huge ledge on the right. 2 bolt anchor(old bolts). Use lots of slings to avoid drag. This pitch is 4 stars and amazing the whole way.
Pitch 3: 5.6 60' Short pitch, but grovely in the chimney. Consider slinging gear and follower trailing pack between legs. Clip webbing around a chock and head straight up on the OUTSIDE of the chock. A few more fun face moves to gain another chock lead you to the 3rd class stuff. Lots of options for belay.
Descent: Walk straight back to find webbing with a quick link to rap about 50' and head south to find trail back to Bluff Springs Trail. Bring a bit of webbing to replace old stuff.
Rack: 1x set nuts, 1x cams from blue MC-orange MC, 2x .5-#3 C4, optional set of C3's to sew it up (I did). 12 slings. I think I used everything at least once, especially the smaller stuff.
The rock is surprisingly good in the back of the crack where thin gear works best. I placed all of the smallest nuts and cams I brought on P2, and they were bomber.
Feb 3, 2013
|Definitly take singles of the micro pro. This desert rock eats it up. Definitly used the 00 (and even 000 from what I remember) on P1 and P2.|
By Jacob Jones
Dec 14, 2014
|Did this today. The hike in and up was about 50 minutes. Fun climb. Three pitches. Agree with Tim's beta. Not for the newby 5.8 leader. The start to P1 is a little spicy. I couldn't get anything in at the the p2 (route) crux and had to run it out about 15-20 feet until the dihedral opened up.|
Dec 16, 2014
|There is a rappel anchor atop the (roughly) West summit that is a more pleasant rappel than the old one through the tree. One can then scramble around to the walk-off, or rappel all the way down the face from here, but I'm not sure if you need 2 ropes for this or not.|