|l. Sleepy Hollow
Don't let the nice start fool you. This route gets worse and worse as you ascend and turns into a grass fest with no gear. I wound up pulling on grass clumps for handholds in some places.
P1 - Climb up the center of the face past numerous ledges that become grassier toward the top.
At the center of a clean-looking face a bit past Dick's Prick.
Standard Gunks rack + weedeater ;-)
From: Lowell, MA
Jun 28, 2014
rating: 5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a PG13
I didn't think it was too dirty/grassy, but then I had just led "Pfui Teufel", which was extremely grassy and dirty at the top - much worse than what I found here.
The route is covered with a lot of lichen, but otherwise the holds are reasonably clean. About halfway up, the wall was covered in brown lichen to the right. I stayed off that and moved up the cleanest looking surfaces. You really have to hunt for pro as you approach the top, but fortunately the climbing is easy enough that you don't really need much (if you are careful).