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l. Sleepy Hollow
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10,000 Restless Virgins T 
A Long Walk For Man, A Short Climb For Mankind T 
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Art's Route T 
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Creaky Joints and Trigger Points T 
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Emilietta T 
Fancy Free T 
Footloose T 
Headless Horseman T 
Independent Hangover T 
Lone Ranger, The T 
Penal Colony/Circumcision link up T 
Pfui Teufel T 
Tennish Anyone? T 
Trigger Point T 
V.D. T 
Wegetables I've Never Seen Before T 

The Lone Ranger 

YDS: 5.3 French: 3+ Ewbanks: 10 UIAA: III ZA: 9 British: VD 3a PG13

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 100'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.3 French: 3+ Ewbanks: 10 UIAA: III ZA: 9 British: VD 3a [details]
FA: Todd Swain (1981)
Page Views: 425
Submitted By: Tim Schafstall on Apr 22, 2008

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BETA PHOTO: A look up the start of "The Lone Ranger".

Description 

Don't let the nice start fool you. This route gets worse and worse as you ascend and turns into a grass fest with no gear. I wound up pulling on grass clumps for handholds in some places.

P1 - Climb up the center of the face past numerous ledges that become grassier toward the top.


Location 

At the center of a clean-looking face a bit past Dick's Prick.


Protection 

Standard Gunks rack + weedeater ;-)



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By dragons
From: Lowell, MA
Jun 28, 2014
rating: 5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a PG13

I didn't think it was too dirty/grassy, but then I had just led "Pfui Teufel", which was extremely grassy and dirty at the top - much worse than what I found here.

The route is covered with a lot of lichen, but otherwise the holds are reasonably clean. About halfway up, the wall was covered in brown lichen to the right. I stayed off that and moved up the cleanest looking surfaces. You really have to hunt for pro as you approach the top, but fortunately the climbing is easy enough that you don't really need much (if you are careful).