This is up the gully between Vampire Rock and Black Widow Slab. You can see this wall from the road when driving up to the parking. It is up behind Vampire essentially.
We were not sure what to call this place...does it have a name already?
For now we will call it The Loft.
Park as for Vampire Rock. Approach as for Vampire, then continue up gully to right. Follow cairns up, staying on the left side of the gully, then branching right near the top. A short scramble step leads you up to the ledge where the routes start (off left after ascending step).
This is a nice little route uphill from areas. It has fun but hard to read climbing. An onsight would be proud! Start in small crack (between orange lichen streaks - crux) and continue up the wall. Pull over a small bulge/overhang and angle up face near right hand arete.The crux crack feels a bit committing because of the ground being close and a lack of gear. There is a really good stopper placement (long reach) that does protect the crux, although it is hard to reach up and clip it in......[more]Browse More Classics in CO