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 ADVANCED
Sports Challenge Rock - East Face
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Championship Wrestling T 
Clean and Jerk T 
Cool but Concerned T 
Cool But Not Too Concerned  TR 
Disco Decoy T 
Hang and Swing T 
Leave it to Beaver (aka The Beaver) T 
Lobster, The T 

The Lobster 

YDS: 5.12a French: 7a+ Ewbanks: 25 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 25 British: E5 6a R

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 80'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.12a French: 7a+ Ewbanks: 25 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 25 British: E5 6a [details]
FA: (TR) John Bachar and Mike Lechlinski, 1980, FL: Tony Yaniro, 1981
Page Views: 269
Submitted By: Brad G on Apr 7, 2014

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (1)
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Brad finishing up The Lobster.

Description 

The Lobster climbs the thin crack system between Leave it to Beaver and Clean and Jerk. Climb Leave it to Beaver up to the ledge, place a small cam (yellow Alien) in a pocket and traverse left to the start of The Lobster crack. The crux involves thin smearing that’s protected by a hard to place micro nut. If the nut rips you’ll take a large fall on a bomber medium sized nut lower down. The upper half of the climb is easy and well protected. You probably wouldn’t deck on this climb with a good belay but it’s still exciting none the less.

Location 

Just left of Leave it to Beaver.

Protection 

Finger to thin hand sized cams, medium nut (#7 hb offset)and a micro nut ( #2 bd micro nut)


Photos of The Lobster Slideshow Add Photo
Brad clipping the first piece of gear on The Lobst...
Brad clipping the first piece of gear on The Lobst...
Brad leading The Lobster.
Brad leading The Lobster.
Brad at the crux section of The Lobster.
Brad at the crux section of The Lobster.

Comments on The Lobster Add Comment
Show which comments
By C Miller
Administrator
Apr 9, 2014

This line is a direct start to another route, Dick Enberg (5.11a), which climbs the tree next to the face before transitioning into the crack proper.

Due to the existing gear at the time the first lead of this route was done using pitons but as Brad notes protects decently with modern gear.
By Randy
May 13, 2014

Dick Enberg essentially does NOT exist anymore, since the pine tree has fallen over.

The tree was in declining health for many years and died a couple years back (but was still upright). For a few years, climbing the tree (which was increasingly leaning further from the face) was not really possible. It fell within the last year.

So, the only way of doing this line now is via The Lobster.