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 ADVANCED
The Crow's Nest
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Calypso S 
Clambake S 
Corvus B. TR 
Crow's Nest, The S 
Dingy, The S 
Ill Gotten Booty S 
J-boat T 
Keel Hauled S 
Keel-Ho S 
Land Ho! S 
Little Mermaid, The S 
Mussels S 
Mutiny S 
Nantucket Sleigh Ride S 
Pee Wee's Big Adventure T 
S.O.S. S 
Saint Elmo's Fire S 
Scuttlebutt S 
Sea Breeze S 
Seasick S 
Starboard Drift T 
Trad's Nest, The S 
Walk the Plank S 
Woman Overboard S 

The Little Mermaid 

YDS: 5.6 French: 4c Ewbanks: 14 UIAA: V ZA: 12 British: S 4b

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 40'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.6 French: 4c Ewbanks: 14 UIAA: V ZA: 12 British: S 4b [details]
FA: FA Mark Sprague 9/03
Page Views: 1,243
Submitted By: BDalhaus on Jun 8, 2009

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BETA PHOTO: Little Mermaid
Note: New route moratorium area MORE INFO >>>

Description 

A nice warmup or first lead that follows jugs up a friendly left leaning flake to gain a ledge below a short roof. Move left over a crux bulge and then use the underclings to full advantage to move back right and up the corner above the roof to the anchor. There is a good hueco in the roof from which to clip the 5th bolt to protect the crux.


Location 

On the right end of the Crow's Nest, left of Scuttlebutt and right of Mussels.


Protection 

6 bolts to anchors.



Photos of The Little Mermaid Slideshow Add Photo
Sarah working up the layback section
Sarah working up the layback section
Yes, the route goes that way.
Yes, the route goes that way.
The Little Mermaid
The Little Mermaid
Little Mermaid
Little Mermaid
Chris moving into the corner.
Chris moving into the corner.
Comments on The Little Mermaid Add Comment
Show which comments
By matthewWallace
From: plymouth, nh
Jan 29, 2010
rating: 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b

FA Mark Sprague 9/03

By M Sprague
Administrator
From: New England
Apr 13, 2010

I almost died scrubbing this one. I took a whipper from the anchors to just a few feet off the ground on a static rope. Luckily the rope was running down from the top of the cliff so it had enough stretch.
Lesson: Always recheck your rope after you let somebody use it to get to their project and use full body weight to check there is no slack in the system, doh!(A giant hidden loop had gotten caught in the bushes when they whipped it back into position)

By matthewWallace
From: plymouth, nh
Aug 20, 2010
rating: 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b

Really fun route with a wide variety of styles of climbing, in forty feet I used a arm jam, a fist jam, did two hand foot matches, and a hand jam, also with a fun easy slab mixed in. There is a lot o do in this short climb.

By kenr
Aug 5, 2011

High density of interesting + varied moves at the grade. But much shorter than expected for 6 bolts. The walk up to Crow's Nest from Jimmy is longer than some maps suggest, so make sure you have other things to do here at Crows Nest to justify the labor of approach.

By matthewWallace
From: plymouth, nh
Aug 12, 2012
rating: 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b

This route protects fairly well with trad gear, can be a bit spicy on the slab section if you miss the one opportunity for gear.

By JayMorse
From: Hooksett, New Hampshire
Oct 2, 2013

I'll second that this goes very well on gear. It would be well worth it for a new trad climber to come up for Pee Wee's, then do this on gear (and clip the bolts if they feel sketched). It's one of my favorite easy climbs too - it requires some technique.